Exploring Jaffa

Anyone who has strolled along Jerusalem Boulevard in Tel Aviv-Jaffa in recent years knows that the ongoing construction of the light rail has undeniably transformed the urban landscape, creating a markedly different experience for those spending their days in the bustling city. The culinary scene on this street was beginning to show signs of revival, but the outbreak of war dealt a devastating blow, leading yet again to the closure of many longstanding food establishments.

Recently, a number of food initiatives have emerged, aimed at revitalizing the streets and enriching the community, focusing on ensuring access to the culinary treasures of Jaffa, particularly for long-time residents of central Israel.

One of these initiatives is being spearheaded by Mika Sheemonov, a chef and history teacher. Sheemonov embodies the epitome of resilience and success, a woman who refuses to let any obstacle hinder her path – not even serious back surgery. She is entirely self-taught when it comes to anything food related. After spending years honing her skills as a chef at various establishments, she ventured into entrepreneurship with her own restaurant for a brief six-month period. Following that, she explored new culinary horizons by working aboard a cruise ship. Until Oct. 7, she would graciously host gourmet dining experiences in her home.

Sheemonov’s world revolves around the culinary arts, and she regularly leads food tours in Georgia and Naples. Three months ago, during her time in Greece, she experienced a sudden loss of sensation in her leg. Within hours, she found herself undergoing emergency surgery to repair a slipped disc. Since then, she’s been subletting apartments across Israel, longing deeply for her home in Jaffa.

Sheemonov was born in Jerusalem, and her family moved to Tel Aviv when she was three. Since then, Jaffa has held a special place in her heart, and it became her favorite destination in the world. She channels her profound affection for this city into the tours she leads, expressing her love and admiration for its rich history and vibrant culture.

Since 1915, when the road was constructed under the direction of Hasan Beck, the Ottoman governor of Jaffa at the time, Jerusalem Boulevard has undergone profound transformation. Initially named Jamal Pasha Street after the Ottoman ruler, it underwent a name change to King George Street when British rule took over. With the establishment of the State of Israel, it was renamed Road 1 before eventually settling on its current name: Jerusalem Boulevard.

The architects behind the street’s design aimed to infuse it with a European ambiance, leading to the construction of theaters, restaurants, and cinemas along its length.

Regrettably, none of the original institutions remain operational today. Nonetheless, a handful of beloved restaurants continue to serve customers. Amid the backdrop of construction noise from the ongoing light rail project, Sheemonov passionately narrates the rich history of this bustling street to her tour participants.

(Note: All eateries are kosher aside from three.)

1. Gueta

The first stop on Sheemonov’s tour is Gueta, a Tripolitan restaurant run by Rafi Gueta that offers traditional homemade fare, such as mafrum, a beef and potato dish; chraimeh; meatballs; couscous; and lots of stuffed vegetables. The narrative of Jerusalem Boulevard’s evolution is encapsulated in the tale of Gueta’s beginnings.

At first, Gueta opened as an Italian restaurant, but its tenure was shortlived. Subsequently, an attempt as a French restaurant met a similar fate. However, the pivotal moment arrived one day as Rafi Gueta sat in his mother’s kitchen, struck by a stroke of brilliance: to resurrect Gueta and highlight authentic Tripolitan cuisine. Back then, serving authentic home-style food at restaurants wasn’t as prevalent a trend as it is today. Nevertheless, Gueta boldly filled his new menu with all the delights he had savored at home while growing up. His gamble proved successful, and to this day Gueta remains one of Jaffa’s most thriving restaurants.

Location: 6 Jerusalem Boulevard, Jaffa

2. The Wine Man

A beautiful building just off Jerusalem Boulevard is the home of the Wine Man. At first glance, it appears to be just a wine shop, but upon closer inspection it reveals itself as a hub for wine enthusiasts. The shop was opened in the late 1990s by Hayim Gan, a respected wine expert, and the shop has undergone numerous transformations before settling into its current location. The secret charm of the place lies in the vast variety of

Israeli wines it offers, which hail from the smallest boutique wineries to the largest ones. In addition, the store sells a variety of fine international wines. Besides an impressive wine collection, the Wine Man also hosts events, competitions, and workshops. Wine tastings are held there on Thursdays and Fridays for NIS 100 per person.

Location: 4 Shlomo Road, Tel Aviv

3. Fly Fish – Abed Hana’s Fish Shop

One cannot discuss Jaffa’s culinary scene without acknowledging one of its most important treasures: its fishing industry. Throughout Jaffa, there are many fish shops whose reputations precede them. One of the most popular is Fly Fish, located just a few steps from Jerusalem Boulevard. It is run by Hana Abed, who made the decision to open a fish shop in Jaffa seven years ago, after years of working in restaurants and fish factories. His shop offers fresh fish that can be purchased on the spot or ordered for delivery. When we met with Abed, he had us taste one of his favorite dishes, sayadia, which is a type of fish casserole made with fish bone broth, fish heads, cheeks, and fillet.

Location: 17 Shlomo Way, Jaffa

4. Pundak Herzl

It’s unimaginable that someone could walk along Jerusalem Boulevard without pausing at one of its most iconic culinary destinations: Pundak Herzl. Established by the owner immediately after he completed his IDF military service in 1969, this quaint eatery has been a fixture in Jaffa for years. The proprietor continues to personally oversee every dish that emerges from his kitchen, which include shwarma, meat skewers, falafel, kubbeh, and soups.

Location: 67 Jerusalem Boulevard, Jaffa

5. Leon Bakery

Leon Bakery is situated on the outskirts of the Jaffa Flea Market. Leon specializes in authentic Bulgarian filo dough burekas, which are prepared according to secret recipes Savta Julie brought with her when she made aliyah from Bulgaria. Patrons can enjoy demonstrations of the art of crafting burekas from filo dough sheets while indulging in utterly delectable carbs, accompanied by sipping ayran, a traditional Turkish beverage made from yogurt, salt, and water.

Location: 17 Olei Zion, Jaffa

6. Avner’s Delicatessen

To satisfy a craving for Balkan pickled fish or Bulgarian pepper spread (lutenitsa), Avner’s Delicatessen is the place to go, founded by two seasoned friends – Avner Sweid and Rami Cohen. These days, Sweid is behind the counter, greeting customers with a welcoming smile and encouraging them to try an array of salads. Like many businesses, Avner’s Delicatessen faced numerous challenges while the Tel Aviv light rail was under construction, which led to Cohen’s departure from the business. Nevertheless, Sweid remains undeterred, even amid the relatively slow foot traffic during the current war. He patiently offers customers details about his fresh cheeses, salads, and pickled fish. The advantage of his fare is that everything is fresh and preservative-free. On offer is a variety of olives, cheeses, pickles, salads; and on weekends, lots of different vegetable patties.

Location: 70 Jerusalem Boulevard, Jaffa

7. Meir Nuts & Seeds

One of the oldest establishments found on Jerusalem Boulevard is Meir Nuts & Seeds. Its popularity stems from its traditional frying method, which utilizes copper pots. Established in 1949 by the young and ambitious Israel Azulai, the shop offers roasted nuts, spices, and dried fruits. The shop is currently run by third- and fourth-generation members of the Azulai family.

The family members take pride in preparing everything themselves, grinding and roasting on site. Unlike other spice shops, here you won’t find an enormous tray filled with nuts on display. Instead, everything is stored in large tin containers so that they remain as fresh as possible. They boast about their excellent marzipan, called masapan, which is made from almonds, using a special pot their grandfather brought to Israel from Bulgaria.

They also say that theirs is the only shop that offers a delicacy made from roasted apricot pits, which can cost as much as NIS 280 per kilogram. The reason for the high price, gladly paid by both young and older Balkan natives, lies in the way it is produced. The part that is eaten is hidden within the apricot pit, which must be cracked and peeled, then soaked for a week in water, and then manually softened and cleaned.

Location: 62 Jerusalem Boulevard, Jaffa

Price: The three-hour tour with Mika Sheemonov: NIS 260 per person in a group of 12-20 people. Individual registration is possible. Details: www.Mikafoodart.com; 050-843-2843.

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