In Krakow, Night of the Synagogues bolsters Jewish pride
KRAKOW, Poland (JTA) – For the sixth year in a row, the seven synagogues in Krakow’s historic Jewish district of Kazimierz opened their doors for 7@Nite — or the Night of the Synagogues — a one night mini-festival aimed at bolstering Jewish pride and promoting Jewish awareness among the public.
Each synagogue, from the Gothic Old Synagogue that is now a Jewish historical museum, to the ornate 19th-century Tempel Synagogue that is used for both services and cultural events, hosted an exhibit, concert, film or other event illustrating contemporary Jewish culture in Poland and around the world.
“The most important message is that this is an open event, carried out by Jews, for everybody,” said Karina Sokolowska, the Poland director of the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee.
Organized by the JDC, the Krakow Jewish Community Center and the Krakow Jewish Religious Community, 7@Nite first took place in 2011.
Since then it has become an annual event advertised on posters throughout the city, which begins with an open-air havdala ceremony ending Shabbat, conducted from the roof of the JCC.
From the conclusion of havdala at around 10:30 p.m. Saturday until 2:30 a.m. Sunday, thousands of people roam around visiting the synagogues, all of which are located within a few blocks of each other.
Organizers estimated that this year’s havdala drew a record 1,400 people, who packed into the JCC courtyard.
“Go and enjoy the synagogues,” JCC Executive Director Jonathan Ornstein told the crowd. “The Jewish heritage of Krakow does not just belong to the Jews but to all of us. As Cracovians, be proud.”
A constant flow of people moved in and out of the synagogues throughout the evening hours, with the overwhelming majority being young, non-Jewish Cracovians.
With only about 20,000 Jews, Poland has experienced a public fascination with the country’s Jewish heritage, including dozens of Jewish museums and culture festivals often run by non-Jews.
Some said they had made it a point to come to Kazimierz to take part.
“It’s the only day of the year that you can see all the synagogues, and I came last year and two years ago, too,” said Natalia Giemza, 23, who is not Jewish but said she had taken university courses on Jewish history.
Other visitors made a quick visit to a synagogue or two as part of a Saturday night out. In recent years, the Kazimierz district has become the city’s liveliest center of youth-oriented nightlife, and the pubs, clubs, cafes and restaurants were crowded on a warm night.
“We were just out drinking and thought, why not?” said Mateus, 22, who joined a group of friends visiting the baroque Izaak Synagogue after 1 a.m.
Built in the 17th century, the Izaak - with its towering vaulted ceiling and frescoed decoration - is used for regular services.
For 7@Nite it hosted an exhibit on Ethiopian Jews, with a hummus and pita snack bar in its courtyard.
“I’ve been in other synagogues, but never the Izaak,” Mateus said, adding that one of the reasons he had wanted to visit was “to gain knowledge about our roots.”
“I’m not Jewish or Catholic, but I think there is some Jewish blood in my ancestry,” he said. Mateus said he did not, however, plan to join the JCC or take any other steps toward affiliation.
His friend Jakub said he was Catholic, but he and his parents “have always been interested in Jewish things.”
The 7@Nite event was staffed by volunteers who managed crowds, handed out kippot to visiting men, and kept count of visitors.
Most were not Jewish, and according to the JDC’s Sololowska, some had come from as far as the northwestern city of Szczecin hundreds of miles away to take part.
“I’m Catholic, and I started volunteering at the JCC two years ago,” said graduate student Anna Wilkosz, who said that well over 1,000 people had visited the 17th-century Kupa Synagogue by midnight. “I felt it was urgent to be involved.”
Yet most visitors seemed to take part in the Night of the Synagogues in a spirit of good will.
At midnight, Giemza and a friend entered Kupa Synagogue, which is decorated with colorful frescoes.
It hosted a special photo and interview exhibit about contemporary Polish Jewish identity.
They carried hamsas, the handshaped Middle Eastern good luck charm that they had made in an art workshop taking place at another of the synagogues.
“I hope to get to all the synagogues tonight,” Giemza said. “It’s really great for me.”