Think a safari can’t be romantic? Kenya’s tented camp resorts add splendor to a honeymoon adventure
The moment was dreamlike and mesmerizing. An enormous pride of golden lions slumbered, snored and groaned in the afternoon sun, their long tails thumping against one another, and then on the ground in a series of nonstop feline movements. A couple from Sweden sat next to me in a Land Rover on safari in Kenya’s Masai Mara, and the husband started counting them off one by one until he announced a total of 16 cats, a big pile of lion love.
The simple idea of safari is a romantic notion, and with summer upcoming and June brides galore, the idea of an unhurried honeymoon in Kenya, with its magnificent lion prides, starlit nights and endless, windswept savannas is the perfect if not adventurous way to begin a marriage.
With a nod to romance and love, take your pick of the following camps and lodges that range from thatched roofs to tented luxury and will leave you with starry-eyed memories of your new life together.
Finch Hattons Luxury Tented Camp, Tsavo West National Park
Finch Hattons, named for the British-born aristocrat Denys Finch-Hatton, a big-game hunter and adventurer who lived in Kenya, is in uncrowded Tsavo West National Park, a place of absolute quiet and where it’s possible while on a game drive to not encounter another human. Each of the 17 luxury tented suites has a private deck, a sumptuous bedroom and an ensuite bathroom with oversized showers.
On a clear day, Mount Kilimanjaro is visible over the camp’s natural springs. The animals are fewer here than in the Masai Mara or Amboseli but no less exciting to see, especially with wonderful birding. The food is simply outstanding, with seasonal fruit and vegetables, grass-fed beef and fresh seafood flown in from Kenya’s coast. Eating under the stars is an option.
At the end of the day, opt for a treatment at the small spa. On game drives, expect to see elephants, giraffes or Tsavo’s most famous residents, lions. Visit www.finchhattons.com or Cheli & Peacock Safaris at www.chelipeacock.com
Fairmount Mount Kenya Safari Club, Nanyuki
Three things stand out in the storied Mount Kenya Safari Club. First, the equator runs directly through it. It’s fun and offbeat to stand in the northern hemisphere one second and then step into the southern the next. Plus, the views of snowcapped Mount Kenya are unrivaled. I never once tire of seeing Kenya’s second-highest mountain in all its rugged, mountainous glory.
The service is impeccable and the staff is ready to assist at a moment’s notice. Add in its history (actor William Holden was instrumental in founding the resort), the rich Colonial architecture, plush accommodations and 100 acres of lushly landscaped gardens, and it all wraps up neatly for a honeymoon escape for June brides and grooms. Second time to the altar and have little ones tagging along? Families are welcome, too. For more information, visit: www.fairmont.com/mount-kenya-safari/ accommodations.
Elewana Loisaba Tented Camp and Starbeds, Loisaba Conservancy
When darkness falls, only the constellations and moon light up the unpolluted skies of Loisaba Conservancy. With Elewana Loisaba Tented Camp’s location perched right on the edge of an escarpment, the panoramic views, both day and night, seemingly traipse on into eternity. If not for the game drives where you’re likely to see elephants, lions and leopards, you might not want to leave your spacious tent built with custom floorto-ceiling doors and windows and African-themed decor.
If you would rather sleep outdoors, Loisaba also offers handcrafted four-poster Starbeds that are rolled out onto wooden platforms so that you can snooze underneath the wide-open African sky, as you listen to the lullaby of elephants trumpeting from afar. For more information, visit: www. loisaba.com or www.elewanacollection.com.
Segera Retreat, Laikipia
In the undulating plains of the Laikipia Plateau, between Mount Kenya’s magnificence and the depths of the Great Rift Valley, is Segera Retreat, a collection of villas that includes Segera Nay Palad, a place that bespeaks of romance. The only way to describe the very private Segera Nay Palad most effectively is to say that it resembles a big bird nest, albeit a luxurious five-star bird nest, suspended amid the treetops of a river teeming with wildlife. Just the two of you can watch a dazzling African sunset, as you toast the evening with flutes of champagne.
Experience tranquility and the drama of the plains at one time. After a night of gazing at the heavens and then snuggling and slumbering under the stars, wake the next morning as elephants, giraffes and big cats gather at the river to begin their day anew. For more information, visit: www.segera. com.
Richard’s Camp, Masai Mara
Time moves slowly in Africa, very slowly, and the days are unhurried and blissfully long. That’s especially true at Richard’s Camp in the Masai Mara. With only seven posh tents, it’s small, secluded and intimate to ensure privacy. Lots of white linens and furniture make the camp bright and airy. Meals are served under the stars. Bird and bush walks with knowledgeable guides take you through the stark and incredible scenery that surrounds the camp. Sunsets on the Mara are dazzling as the magical transition of the colors merges with the wildly wonderful dusty, musky scents that signal that daylight will soon fade into nightfall.
Celebrate evenings with the customary ritual of a sundowner on the acacia-speckled Mara and salute the view and your new marriage with a gin and tonic on safari, the traditional cocktail of choice. For more information, visit: www. richardscamp.com.
Elewana Elephant Pepper Camp, Masai Mara, Mara North Conservancy
The infinite plains of Elewana Elephant Pepper Camp are known for their extraordinary plethora of wildlife. Great herds of elephants roam the hills, some curious enough to amble straight up to your safari vehicle. For a romantic adventure, at night, the plains and woodlands surrounding the camp come alive with a serenade of lions roaring, hyenas whooping and jackals barking.
While the wildlife may be restless outside, you’re completely safe inside your well-appointed tent set amid a grove of fig, ebony and elephant pepper trees. Have your meals picnic-style by the Mara River. On bush drives, watch carefully for the big cats, not only lions but also cheetahs and leopards, as well as a dazzle of zebras or a tower of giraffes. Elephant Pepper Camp is just lovely and remote, two of the ideal ingredients for a honeymoon in the African bush. For more information, visit: www.elewanacollection.com.
Borana Lodge, Borana Conservancy
From a distance, the thatched roofs of the eight cottages at Borana Lodge meld seamlessly and harmoniously into the warm, rusty fusillade of colors that are the hallmark of the Kenyan landscape. At an elevation of 6,000 feet, nights are cool enough for a crackling fire. Each cottage, built of rock and cedar, has a fireplace and wide, private verandah for game viewing, and the entire lodge overlooks a sparkling lake where wildlife wanders in to slurp water in both early morning and late evening.
Borana Lodge scores bonus points with its spacious bathrooms with showers and tubs that provide fantastic views of Mount Kenya to the south and a panorama of mountains and desert to the north. Call it a loo with a view. The chorus of songbirds and whispers of wind combine for a natural orchestra that soothes the soul. The lodge is elegant and quiet, the way a safari should be. For more information, visit: www.borana.co.ke
If you go
Visit the Kenya Tourism Board at www.magicalkenya.com. Visas and passports are required. Visit www. evisa.go.ke for more information and how to apply electronically.
For the most up-to-date information on entry requirements for COVID-19, malaria, yellow fever and other vaccines, visit the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention at www.cdc.gov/travel.
Kenya Airways is the only airline that flies nonstop to Nairobi from New York. For more information, visit: www.kenya-airways.com. Other airlines offer one-stop service from several gateways in the United States, including KLM, Air France, British Airways, Turkish Airlines, Egyptair, Qatar and Emirates. Most lodges and camps require additional travel by bush plane from Wilson Airport, with arrangements made by your travel agent or tour company. (TNS)