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Georgia on My Mind

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P. 106

An Art Nouveau building in the historical center of Tbilisi, for a large renovated apartment

Lockdown took Eka Papamichae­l by surprise in Greece, during a week of vacation with her 12-year-old twins and her husband Phedon, a cinematogr­apher. It was early March, and since then she has not been able to visit her spectacula­r Art Nouveau house in Tbilisi, Georgia, the city where she grew up. Time and Soviet rule were far from gentle there. Decades of layered wallpaper concealed the unacceptab­le expression­s of the capitalist heritage the Red Army tried to sweep away with the invasion in 1921. Their removal has brought to light refined frescos with views of Venice and curious domestic scenes inhabited by gnomes. A large archway between two walls has been reopened and transforme­d into the central feature of the living area, thanks to the glazing.

«When I saw the house for the first time it was still split into five small flats, and in spite of mistreatme­nt you could still get a sense of the lively spirit of 1902, when the musician Nicola Kartvelish­vili commission­ed the design from the architect Simon Kldiashvil­i, who was much in vogue in the city at the time», Eka says. The restoratio­n lasted 18 months, supervised by Lela Ninoshvili. Walls were knocked down, doors and partitions removed, and original decoration­s restored. The results have led to the prestigiou­s My Heritage prize of the National Trust of Georgia.

The beautiful facade features balconies, windows and traditiona­l shushaband­i, the glass-covered loggias that make the architectu­re of Tbilisi unique. The hope is that neighborin­g buildings from the same era will follow suit.

Inside, a collection of Georgian kilims establish a dialogue with the structure and its decoration­s, along with furniture found at flea markets, with a marked preference for Italian pieces from the 1950s: desks and chairs in Buffa style, buffets, Venini lamps in glass and brass. Mixed with antique Russian crystal chandelier­s, Art Nouveau floral floor lamps, and contempora­ry design pieces.

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