Vecchia Milano

Have your taxi drop you off at Teatro dal Verme at Via San Giovanni sul Muro, 12, or M: Cairoli, exit Via San Giovanni sul Muro (taking the Via Cusani exit will start you on the Brera itin), face Banca Agricola Mantovana, turn right and on the right is the Teatro. ‘It’ gal fash is first up at Miki Thumb at #12 / 02 36520473, then stop at ancient beauty bar #6 Profumeria Vecchia Milano, and keep the retrospect going with fascinating astronomer’s antiquities at #10 Antik Arte e Scienza / 02 86461448 / with old compasses, globes and telescopes. Opposite is #17 Les Antiquaires Objets d’Art / 02 89093314 / the stuff of antique jewellery dreams, at #21 Risi / 02 89092185 / has Italian-made shirts and cashmere, and at the corner of Corso Magenta is girly twirly lingerie at Jennipie / 02 89093714. At Via Santa Maria alla Porta, cross and turn left, following sweet-toothed denizens into Pasticceria Marchesi (see Coffee), then shoot on for antique Britdishes and ceramics from Umberto Podestà / 02 804821, and further, buzz at the door of Neapolitan tie titan E. Marinella / 02 86467036 / for seven-fold silk lovelies. Retrace, passing the Pasticceria, and a few more steps on the street becomes Corso Magenta. Make a detour and turn left into little Via Brisa, zipping past Maximianus’ Roman palace ruins on the left, and #15 Monica G’s jewels on the right, or cross Magenta for décor delight Flamant at #10 / 02 7273041. Opposite is teeny panini stop De Santis at #9; at #11 are wildly colourful resin and crystal by bijoux bella Donatella Pellini / 02 72010569; and Bardelli at #13 has timeless cashmere and linen (m/w). Exit and cross Magenta for antique timepieces at Era L’Ora at #22 / 02 86450965, then cross back and turn right to continue. At Via Nirone, twirl left for button-cute baby wear at #10 Amelia / 02 45495663 / Tue-Sat / cnr Via Ansperto, then continue and turn left into Via Santa Valeria, run along to the second crossroad and turn right into the curvy Via Moriggi. Stop for a glass of wine or lunch at Taverna Moriggi at #8 / 02 80582007 / corner Via Gorani, and say ciao again to Donatella Pellini’s bright bangles at #9 on the right. Practise your catwalk struts straight down the street and strike a pause at ace alfresco bar Chiosco / Mon-Sat / in Piazza Mentana if it’s summer, opposite Spanish home stash Becara at #3. Exit right into Via Santa Marta and at #21 is Sacco Giovannino la Boiserie for piles of antique collectibles; #14 Wait and See / 02 72080195 / with eclectic fash in an old church; and #10 Nader / 02 86998375 / has ethnic rugs galore. Waltz down to the corner of Via San Maurilio to find contempo art at #10 Galleria Rubin / 02 89096921 / on the left. Swirl left onto San Maurilio, then dogleg right to continue on Santa Marta for trad eats at #11 Trattoria Milanese / 02 86451991 / Mon-Fri, then retrace and at San Maurilio shoot right for smart lady fash at #20 Carla Saibene / 02 874008, and carpet star Alberto Levi Gallery at #24 / 02 89011553. Back the way you came, turn left into Via Zecchia Vecchia. A few steps on is the rear of ancient tome library Pinacoteca Ambrosiana / 02 806921. You can’t enter here, so skip straight on for the front entrance.

If hunger strikes, continue forward into Via Cesare Cantù and turn right into Via Spadari for Peck (see Gourmet), with tipplevenient wine bar in the cellar. Opposite is Via Victor Hugo, lined with gastro delights Cracco (see Rest./Fashionista); Peck Italian Bar; and gourmet #2 Galli / 02 86464833. For one last retail stop, retrace to Peck, turn left to meet Via Torino, where you turn left. Gallop 5 mins past the chain stores and left into Via dei Piatti for nature-inspired jewellery by Daniela de Marchi at #6 / 02 86995040. Shopped n’ supped, sì!