La Pergola.

Roma's only 3-Michy-starred resto is a lavish affair of Sèvres porcelain, an Aubusson tapestry, glittery city views, splendid summer terrace, 53,000 bottles of wine, thrilling menu by Heinz Beck and tearjerking bill. Rome Cavalieri Hotel / Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101 / Trastevere / 06 3509 2152 / dinner Tue-Sat / jackets for men / romecavalieri.com