Via del Babuino & Via Margutta
The ‘It' stores of Italy line up on the undesirably named Baboon St. with a straight shot to Piazza di Spagna and fash mecca Via dei Condotti. Start outside Hotel de Russie (see Accom.), but first let's get you sorted. Flash sunnies are mandatory in Roma, so nip across the street to Ottica Spiezia at #199 / 06 361 0593. Suitably shaded, exit right and if you're a bushy lad, cross for quaint Barber Vincenzo at #12 / 06 361 0493, otherwise skip a few doors down to #195 Cesari / 06 361 3456 / one of Roma's finest stores for linens, drapery, towels and fabrics. Eyes on the prize, Violet, exit Cesari and cross then left at Chopard into lovely Via Margutta – where Fellini and Picasso once lived. First up on the left at #3 is cute lunchkin Babette / 06 321 1559. Just around the bend at #5 is Lelli / 06 361 4000 / for fab fabrics and wallpapers, at #11 is luscious leatherfest Saddlers Union / 06 3212 0237 / saddlersunion.com, and across at #109 is Maurizio Grossi (see Adv. Shopping). Beautiful antique handwoven rugs and carpets abound at #36 Danon Gallery / 06 361 4094, while Pratesi at #41 / 06 322 4251 / pratesi.com / has super-chic home furnishings for the jetsetera, and at #47a is Animalier & Oltre / 06 320 8282 / with rustico objets and bric-à-brac. Don't miss décor divinity incarnate at #55b Flair / 06 3265 2067 / flairhomecollection.com. Carry on for a large selection of turn-of the-century ceramics at Antichità Tortori #59 / 06 321 5181 / and a secret Alaïa trove at #67 / 06 320 7671, then hotfoot it back up Margutta and whizz left into little Vicolo Orto di Napoli to re-join Via del Babuino. A quick right, and hit Triple A at #52 (see Standout Stores) for bitchin' bikinis, or left into Babuino, to find centuries-old Hausmann & Co. watch sellers at #63 / 06 3211 0100 / hausmann-co.com, while at #65 Il Gufo / 06 321 7661 / has some terribly pretty children's togs. Museo Canova Tadolini is almost opp. for that all important mid-retail espresso. If home linens light your pilot, whoosh down to #103 for CIR / 06 679 1732 – this is the linen shop in Rome. Exit CIR right, double back up Babuino, left into Via Vittoria and pop into the adorable La Buvette (see Coffee). At #50, discover Laura Zoffoli's / 06 679 7415 / va-va vintage jewels, while nestled at #62 Faliero Sarti / 06 6994 2501 / shelves handmade and dyed silk and cashmere scarves and lovely jewellery. Carry on down Vittoria and on the left at #65 is Dal Co' for glam heels. Phew, you made it! Options... Carry on down Vittoria and cross Via del Corso, the pure white building ahead is the Ara Pacis (see Museums); or if it's marti time (and let's face it, when isn't) head back to Piazza di Spagna for Hotel Hassler's Cigar Bar (see Bars).