Via del Governo Vecchio

To maintain your sanity it's best to avoid this itin on Mon mornings and between 1-4pm. Start with your back to Cul de Sac restaurant in Piazza de Pasquino nestling behind Piazza Navona. Go left two doors for fash forward Luna e L'Altra at #76 / 06 6880 4995 / although timing is everything as it's only open when the shop girls can be arsed, then exit right for hipster jeanster Strategic Business Unit at Via San Pantaleo, 68 / 06 6880 2547 / sbu.it. Exit SBU left and cross the piazza, passing the first of Rome's famed ‘talking statues' on your right, to Society on the cnr / Piazza di Pasquino, 4 / 06 683 2480 / for gorgeous bedding and linen. On the right is pie champ Pasquino (see Pizza). Meander down Governo Vecchio and if you're feeling saucy, zip left down Vicolo della Cancelleria to Zouzou at #9a / 06 689 2176 – if hubby doesn't jump you after this, he's dead, bury him. Retrace to Governo and continue to sweet snifter den #74 Enoteca Il Piccolo, then Josephine De Huertas & Co. at #68 (and #59) / 06 687 6586 / is loved for her well-edited cache of contempo labels. Glam rock jeweller Delfina Delettrez is at #67, while Beatrice C at #60 / 06 839 5041 / has chic gal gear. Across the street is moddy Italian designer Martino Midali at #105 / 06 6830 1114, then either left into Vicolo Savelli to La Montecarlo (see Pizza), or right into Via Parione. Nine at #19 / 06 683 3154 / has cutting-edge designer duds, Soares at #18 / 06 6830 0235 / stocks chic homegrown femme wear, and #16 Rosa Croce is an ace vintage stash. Now exit right and back onto Via del Governo Vecchio for youngblood Italian artists at #43 Giga / 06 8744 0940 / and a damn good rummage through more ‘pre-loved' gear at Abiti Usati on the right at #35 / 06 6830 7105 / with second-hand bags, clothes and hats. Across the street at #128 are woven gold and silk bracelets at Nicotra di San Giacomo / 06 6821 0407 / nicotradisangiacomo.com, while Utile Futile at #20a / 06 6880 9488 / has fresh Danish galwear. Amble up Governo to find La Clessidra at #8 / 06 6880 4895 / for divine heavy silks, tapestries, brocades and velvets. Note: if you carry on along, the street becomes Via dei Banchi Nuovi, where you'll find on your left at #39 Wonderfool (see Spa), real deal cucina povera at #14 Da Alfredo e Ada (see Restaurants/Relaxed), adorable beachwear at #40 Delfina / 06 6830 8775 / delfinaswimwear. net, and upcycled furniture, vintage French flatware and ceramics at #48 Passato e Prossimo / 06 6066 9938. Otherwise, exit La Clessidra right and then turn right into Via degli Orsini and bear round the bend left onto Via di Panico. Immediately on the left is Giulio Passami L'Olio, a wine bar with a nifty light menu; or at #75 is Arte del Mosaico / 06 683 3574. Next, stock up on antique rustic Italian tiles at #26 Maffetone Design / 06 683 2754. Carry on left down Panico and find decorative art and antique marble maestros Franco er Marmista at #40 / 06 6830 7899 / francoermarmista.com. Or, go straight ahead through the carpark ( Piazza dei Coronari) and head up Via dei Coronari, which just happens to be where the Coronari itin starts – how darn convenient is that! Keep on shopping, bambino!