Trastevere

This ancient neighbourhood, while not really there in the retail stakes, is ground zero for local vibe and fun for a wander either at lunch or particularly in the evening. The downer is that while there's heaps of character, there's also heaps of dog shit and the entire enclave has been doused in graffiti on a hereunto unprecedented scale which truly spoils its loveliness. Whoever is defacing this area should be strung up by their tiny coglioni or suffer the same fate as that of the gracious lady St. Agatha. Don't ask...

Alrighty, start your stroll at the Piazza San Cosimato, this tiny little market (closed Sun) is always busy with locals. Face the permanent green stalls at the back of the market, and head up the right side Via di San Cosimato. Stroll along until you get to pretty Piazza Santa Maria, walk diagonally across and turn left onto Via della Paglia and right into Piazza di San Egidio, on the left is the Museo di Roma in Trastevere / closed Mon / admission is free, which is just as well when you see the ropey mannequins representing life in the C.19th. Head up Via della Scala, the street is peppered with shops, cafés, bars and churches. 200m up on the left is the Farmacia di Santa Maria della Scala, it's one of the oldest in Rome. At the end, you have a choice, you can either zip under the arch onto Via della Lungara to find the Botanical Gardens on your left (up Via Corsini), which charges a scandalous 8 euros entry fee and for some inexplicable reason is closed on Sundays – duh, hello? Almost opposite Via Corsini is Palazzo Farnesina on the right at #230 – home to some saucy Raphael frescoes and fun for a quick viz / 9am-1pm. Otherwise, don't go under the arch, but head right around the hairpin bend into Via Santa Dorotea. Sweet tooths waddle over to #10 Checco er Carettiere (see Coffee) for local pastries and gelato, while hops heads should stop at #23 Bir & Fud and #25 Che Siete Venuti a Fa on the left (see Bars for both). Carry on and the street widens into little Piazza Trilussa, twirl left and zip up the staircase to reach Freni & Frizioni (see Bars), or along Via del Politeama is Taverna Trilussa (see Rest./Relaxed). Otherwise take the right fork onto Via del Moro, and totter along browsing as you go, be sure to check out thigh-blaster Valzani at #37b / 06 580 3792 / they do a nice line in milk chocolate smothered hazelnuts, although their speciality is sinful diavoletti – a dark fudge-like choc flavoured with chilli. Spicy. Hang a right at the end of Moro and you'll find yourself again in Piazza Santa Maria. Well, you've done awfully well and deserve an enormous beverage. The best view of Santa Maria church and her famous mosaic gals is from Caffè di Marzio at #15, or mimosas from Caffè delle Arance at #2, or for a tipple with a decidedly grittier local feel, face the church and exit left out of the piazza into Via L'Arco di San Calisto, for a hot choc n' whippy cream at so-relaxed-it'salmost-prone Bar San Calisto. Fun and popular at night, it doesn't get much more local than this. In choco veritas...