San Marco 1
Bondì, Barbie, are you ready to party? Start in Piazza San Marco, forget the crowds for a moment (hard, we know) and be dazzled by the spangly mosaics of the Basilica (see Activities). Now turn your back to it, inside the archways on the right is Quadri (see Lunch), with rival Caffè Florian (see Coffee) on the left. Stay in the left arcade and amble away from the Basilica, ducking into Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa (see Activities) at #71/c for artistic respite, then note the APT tourist info office at #71/F. Shuffle on in the same direction out of the Piazza and dive across into Calle Seconda de l’ascension. On the right is local-turned-global shoeperstar René Caovilla at #1296 / 041 5238038; and next door is Baroque-goth bling at A. Codognato (see Jewellery). The next left will take you to Sete-cento (see Adv. Shopping) if you’ve made an appt., or the start of the San Marco 2 itin is straight ahead in Campo S. Moisé. But for now, retrace towards A. Codognato and pivot left into the Frezzeria. Gaze to the right for velvety Venetia at #1286 (see Adv. Shop.); then for heirloom-worthy jewellery, steer left under the arch Sotoportego e Corte Contarina, spin right then left into Sotoportego e Ramo Secondo Corte Contarina for Roberto Vergombello’s atelier at #1565/a (see Jewellery). Double back to the Frezzaria and turn left to continue. On your left, pop into Gloria Astolfo at #1581 / 041 5206827 / beaded décolletage and wrist candy; a few steps further on the right are antique Murano pieces at #1179 Attombri (see Jewellery) and perfumer I Muschieri’s olfactory delights at #1177 / 041 5228940; on the left is nifty Osteria Enoteca San Marco at #1610 / 041 5285242, and further on, peachy lingerie at #1645 Jade Martine / 041 5212892 / stocking Lise Charmel and JM’S own-brand ostrich feather slippers, oooh. Exit left, and another left takes you to La Colomba (see Rest./ Smart) and Caffè Centrale (see Bars). Otherwise, from Jade Martine, strut straight on, follow the street left, and soon on the right is Araba Fenice at #1822 / 041 5220664 / Armani meets St. John (w). Exit left and turn left into Ramo dei Fuseri – just before the bridge on the left is Pot-pourri at #1810 / 041 5221332 / elegant and relaxed w/wear and lifestyle, then cross the bridge into Calle dei Fuseri where at #4365 Daniela Ghezzo / 041 5222115 / awaits on the right. Pushing on a few minutes, you’ll come to busy Campo S. Luca – turn left and spin left into Rio Terà S. Paternan, to see brill Godi Fiorenza at the very end (see Adv. Shop.). Now, retrace to the Campo, cross diagonally and turn left into Calle del Forno with Black Watch at #4594 / 041 5231945 / for dandies who love the classic, tailored look alla Kiton and Lobb (m). Come out left and turn right into Calle dei Teatro to find Teatro Goldoni on the left and Venezia, le stampe on the right at #4606/b / 041 5234318 / with antique prints and repros of olde Città Laguna, along with custom frames. Exit right and take the next right into Calle dei Fabbri, to find Caffè Doria on the right, cnr of Calle S. Luca (see Coffee), for a thick hot (or cold) cioccolata. Mmm… Bene, retrace to Calle dei Teatro and totter right. Almost immediately on the left is L’ottico Fabbricatore at #4773 / 041 5225263 / otticofabbricatore.com / filled with plush scarves, leather bags and chic sunnies.