Gourmet/lifestyle/sights
Have that Miu Miu eco shopper ready and begin at the very bottom of Ponte di Rialto, Rialto side. A few steps on, past the first couple of tacky mask stalls on the left, pivot left into the frescoed passageway Sottoportico Orafi for Attombri at #65 (see Jewellery) and Piedàterre at #60 (see Adv. Shop.). Retrace to the bottom of the bridge where you started, turn left, and just before you topple into the Grand Canal, on your left is hip Naranzaria at #130 (see Lunch). Facing the Canal, head left along the canal under the arches into Campo Cesare Battisti già Bella Vienna – on your left is popular post-market spritz and coffee hang Al Mercà at #213 / 399 24781, with cheese heaven Casa del Parmigiano next door at #214 / 041 5206525; exiting left, you’ll run directly into Muro Vino e Cucina (see Wine Bars), good for snacks or a sit down upstairs. For the Rialto market proper, exit Muro left and left around the next cnr is the fresh veg section with the fish market further ahead. Turn left past the fish stalls to find Pronto Pesce (see Lunch) for flip-fresh fins and bivalves. Left into Ruga dei Spezieri, soon on your right is Drogheria Mascari at #381 / 041 5229762 / piled high with spices and gourmet goodies – don’t miss the well-stocked wine cellar tucked inside. Continue on to the bank and turn right into Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni. Choices. For a tramezzini (think piccolo crustless sandwiches) and more vino (oh, why not), take the second street on the right under the arch Sotoportego Dei Do Mori to reach Cantina Do Mori on the right at #429 / 041 5225401. Or for seafood, take a left for Calle de la Madona for Alla Madonna (see Rest./relaxed). Or, simply continue on Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni and you’ll find delish cheeses, cold cuts, oils n’ more at Aliani deli at #654 / 041 5224913 / on your left. On like the wind for Hibiscus on your left at #1060 / 041 5208989 / stocking distinctive designs by local and int’l labels (w). Go straight into Campo S. Aponal; directly in front is Serena Vianello at #1226 / 041 5223351 / serenavianello.com / for splendid hats, slippers, scarves and togs by Italian artisans. Do ask them if you’re after something specific, as not all stock is on display. Exit left, turn left into Calle de Mezo through to C.llo dei Meloni and forge on until you reach tiny Pasticceria Rizzardini on the left at #1415 / 041 5223835 / cnr Calle del Forno / for a coffee and Venetian sweets like croccantini (peanut toffee), but tarry not, there’s plenty more. Breeze on, just before the bridge are cool togs for sprogs and their mammas at #1463 Kirikù / 041 2960619, then climb over the bridge into Campo S. Polo with Chiesa San Polo on the right – take a peek at the C.18th ‘Station of the Cross’ by Tiepolo Jr. in the back. Continue straight, keeping left, cross another bridge and wiggle into Calle dei Saoneri to find little red Amadi at #2747 (see Glass), a couple of doors down on the left. Come out and almost directly opposite is Calle Seconda dei Saoneri. Duck in and right at #2674 is Meraviglie di Venezia / 041 721310 / antique glass, incl. fine paperweights; and on the left at #2681 is Gilberto Penzo / 041 719372 / veniceboats.com / expert and magnificent creator of trad Venetian watercraft models. Back to Calle dei Saoneri, turn right for local fare in Da Ignazio’s at #2749 / 041 5234852 / cute interior garden (shame about the outdoor furny); and original, ethnictinged womenswear next door at #2750 Zazù / 041 715426.
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