Gourmet/life­style/sights

LUXE City Guides - Venice - - Rialto / San Polo -

Have that Miu Miu eco shop­per ready and be­gin at the very bot­tom of Ponte di Rialto, Rialto side. A few steps on, past the first cou­ple of tacky mask stalls on the left, pivot left into the fres­coed pas­sage­way Sot­to­por­tico Orafi for At­tombri at #65 (see Jew­ellery) and Piedàterre at #60 (see Adv. Shop.). Re­trace to the bot­tom of the bridge where you started, turn left, and just be­fore you topple into the Grand Canal, on your left is hip Naran­zaria at #130 (see Lunch). Fac­ing the Canal, head left along the canal un­der the arches into Campo Ce­sare Bat­tisti già Bella Vi­enna – on your left is pop­u­lar post-mar­ket spritz and coffee hang Al Mercà at #213 / 399 24781, with cheese heaven Casa del Parmi­giano next door at #214 / 041 5206525; ex­it­ing left, you’ll run di­rectly into Muro Vino e Cucina (see Wine Bars), good for snacks or a sit down up­stairs. For the Rialto mar­ket proper, exit Muro left and left around the next cnr is the fresh veg sec­tion with the fish mar­ket fur­ther ahead. Turn left past the fish stalls to find Pronto Pesce (see Lunch) for flip-fresh fins and bi­valves. Left into Ruga dei Spezieri, soon on your right is Droghe­ria Mas­cari at #381 / 041 5229762 / piled high with spices and gourmet good­ies – don’t miss the well-stocked wine cel­lar tucked in­side. Con­tinue on to the bank and turn right into Ruga Vec­chia S. Gio­vanni. Choices. For a tramezzini (think pic­colo crust­less sand­wiches) and more vino (oh, why not), take the se­cond street on the right un­der the arch So­to­portego Dei Do Mori to reach Cantina Do Mori on the right at #429 / 041 5225401. Or for seafood, take a left for Calle de la Madona for Alla Madonna (see Rest./re­laxed). Or, sim­ply con­tinue on Ruga Vec­chia S. Gio­vanni and you’ll find del­ish cheeses, cold cuts, oils n’ more at Aliani deli at #654 / 041 5224913 / on your left. On like the wind for Hibis­cus on your left at #1060 / 041 5208989 / stock­ing dis­tinc­tive de­signs by lo­cal and int’l la­bels (w). Go straight into Campo S. Aponal; di­rectly in front is Serena Vianello at #1226 / 041 5223351 / ser­e­na­vianello.com / for splen­did hats, slip­pers, scarves and togs by Ital­ian ar­ti­sans. Do ask them if you’re af­ter some­thing spe­cific, as not all stock is on dis­play. Exit left, turn left into Calle de Mezo through to C.llo dei Meloni and forge on un­til you reach tiny Pas­tic­ce­ria Riz­zar­dini on the left at #1415 / 041 5223835 / cnr Calle del Forno / for a coffee and Vene­tian sweets like croc­can­tini (peanut tof­fee), but tarry not, there’s plenty more. Breeze on, just be­fore the bridge are cool togs for sprogs and their mam­mas at #1463 Kirikù / 041 2960619, then climb over the bridge into Campo S. Polo with Chiesa San Polo on the right – take a peek at the C.18th ‘Sta­tion of the Cross’ by Tiepolo Jr. in the back. Con­tinue straight, keep­ing left, cross an­other bridge and wig­gle into Calle dei Saoneri to find lit­tle red Amadi at #2747 (see Glass), a cou­ple of doors down on the left. Come out and al­most di­rectly op­po­site is Calle Se­conda dei Saoneri. Duck in and right at #2674 is Mer­av­iglie di Venezia / 041 721310 / an­tique glass, incl. fine pa­per­weights; and on the left at #2681 is Gil­berto Penzo / 041 719372 / venice­boats.com / ex­pert and mag­nif­i­cent cre­ator of trad Vene­tian wa­ter­craft mod­els. Back to Calle dei Saoneri, turn right for lo­cal fare in Da Ig­nazio’s at #2749 / 041 5234852 / cute in­te­rior gar­den (shame about the out­door furny); and orig­i­nal, eth­nictinged wom­enswear next door at #2750 Zazù / 041 715426.

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