THE FUTURE OF ITALIAN TAILORING
Antonio De Matteis, CEO of Kiton
L’UOMO VOGUE: What kind of man buys a tailor-made suit nowadays?
ANTONIO DE MATTEIS: There is no single consumer type. In mature markets, today “tailor-made” is aimed both at very young customers, who by making their first suits have the opportunity to enter this world and to understand if it reflects their needs, as well our regular customers who wear only these types of suits. Also, there are fabrics that are used only for “tailor-made” so those who want these types of exclusive materials – we are talking about five/six bolts of fantasia fabric – can only use this ser vice.
L’U.V. What, in your opinion, is the future of formalwear?
A.D.M. Look, a funny thing is that all the main Silicon Valley players wear Kiton. Maybe we’re used to seeing them in T-shirts but when they have to put on a suit, that suit is our s. For our customers, the suit is no longer something to be worn every day but only on certain occasions, just as happens with other pieces of clothing like the tuxedo or the blue blazer. For sure, it’s no longer worn daily, but at certain times of a man’s life formalwear still matters. Especially for younger men, who are very precise in their requests and much more aware than previous generations. One thing that I really like about young customers is the fact that they are very observant and that they know what they want.
L’U.V. What are the most receptive markets for your product?
A.D.M. For us, the main market remains the United States. Europe is still essential, including Italy, which for us is an impor tant market. Then Russia, where we have been a presence since 1991, and China, where we have been for ten years.
L’U.V. What would Made in Italy need to remain synonymous with high quality?
A.D.M. In my opinion, in order for Made in Italy to r emain true to itself it needs to be solely produced in Italy and not just be “labelled”, something that happens frequently today when items made abroad are labelled Made in Italy. This is absolutely no good for us. The real Made in Italy for today’s consumer, who is very informed and aware, is still a plus. Big Italian companies should play less at this type of thing.
Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, General Merchandising Manager and Creative Director of Corneliani
L’UOMO VOGUE: What kind of man buys a tailor-made suit nowadays?
STEFANO GAUDIOSO TRAMONTE: If in the past “tailor-made” was seen as a service to meet the needs of the difficult to fit man, today it’s more of a lifestyle. The kind of man who seeks this ser vice is a man who cares about his image and is looking for something different from what he already has in his closet. He is an evolved extrovert, and curious consumer.
L’U.V. What, in your opinion, is the future of formalwear?
S.G.T. I find it hard to imagine the powerful people of the world in Bermuda shorts or coveralls. That said, I think a cer tain formal elegance is now coming back after the wave of streetwear in recent years, a trend that all brands, including us, have felt the need to reinterpret in their own ways. Some very elegant women were seen at the last f ashion shows, and this makes me think that even men will align themselves accordingly.
L’U.V. What are the most receptive markets for your product?
S.G.T. For us, Italy remains a very important market. Then comes Russia. Finally, there is Northern Europe, in particular Holland and Scandinavia. Also, we have been reorganising our presence in the United States for two years now. As for China, I believe that a return to domestic consumption will be encouraged in the coming years, so we need to know how to position ourselves. The Chinese market changes very quickly and has much finer tastes than commonly thought.
L’U.V. What would Made in Italy need to r emain synonymous with high quality?
S.G.T. Surely production in Italy is a fundamental f actor. What the world envies in us – the reason why they buy from us – is our know-how and we should have preserved it better. Creating a network would have been the best thing to do, encouraging collaboration between companies as opposed to just competition, but this has already been said a thousand times. Made in Italy, however, is something that will continue to work and this is demonstrated by the fact that they all come to us to make their products.
Luigi Lardini, Men’s Creative Director and Co-founder of Lardini
L’UOMO VOGUE: What kind of man buys a tailor-made suit nowadays?
LUIGI LARDINI: When a man buys a “made-to-measure’” suit it’s because he wants to be his own stylist, because he wants to choose the f abric, the matching, the interior options, the lapels. However, we obviously update them on what is trending in fit and style, which is fundamental to per sonalising a piece of clothing.
L’U.V. What, in your opinion, is the future of formalwear?
L.L. I think that taste has changed a lot, even we Italians have lost a certain way of dressing, gagà style, and we have become more European. I don’t think it’s a lack of money; I think we just prefer to buy other things. As young men, my friends and I bor rowed clothes from our parents, ties from the Fifties that I still wear today. Now ties are in decline, as are shirts. Everything is a bit in decline because ther e is a new way to dress! I think for malwear will always exist because if you go to a ceremony you need to be well dressed, but I often ask myself how to communicate this kind of culture to younger people. Because, possibly, when they see a well-dressed man they might want that look as well. The way we purchase has changed. For my generation, it was a pr iority to dress in a certain way, for the new generation it’s not, but it’s also the beauty of working in clothing – it’s a challenge.
The most important thing for a man is dr essing in a way that he feels more free. Also, because it’s often the way a suit is worn, the attitude, it’s this that makes the elegance.
L’U.V. What are the most receptive markets for your product?
L.L. If I think of China, surely it is a market that offers great opportunities, even if they tend to prefer big brands because they may be more influenced by advertising. Among the markets where consumers are more mature and aware, I would certainly say Japan for men and Korea for women. They know how to dress very well and know how to mix labels even with cheaper products.
L’U.V. What would Made in Italy need to r emain synonymous with high quality?
L.L. I think it’s up to our creativity, our ability to make the customer understand that the same blue suit, worn by two different people, can be changed by simply altering the knot in a tie. I am not discouraged. I believe that good taste is innate in us and we will continue to do well.
Pino Lerario, Owner and Creative Director of Tagliatore
L’UOMO VOGUE: What kind of man buys a tailor-made suit nowadays?
PINO LERARIO: Let’s say there are two types of customer, generally speaking. One is certainly a demanding man, who wants a piece of clothing that’s an extension of himself, that fits him perfectly. He wants to treat himself by wearing fabrics chosen especially for him. The other is someone who, due to physical necessity, cannot find clothing suitable for him other than those made to measure by a tailor. Also, nowadays there are many young men who are drawn to this world because they hear about it through social media by following public personalities who are sort of influencers, ambassadors. And this makes them want to experience luxury.
L’U.V. What, in your opinion, is the future of formalwear?
P.L. I don’t believe that formalwear will ever die, because it continuously evolves and because we tend to always return to the classics in some way. For a while, they used very bright colours for suits, but now fabrics such as g risaille, herringbone and flannel are returning but freshened and updated for today’s style. Then there is also the trend of mixing streetwear with more formal clothing, but real formalwear, in my opinion, will never disappear.
L’U.V. What are the most receptive markets for your product?
P.L. In my experience, and for what my company features, the one that g ives me the most satisfaction is the Japanese market because my wearability and tastes are particularly well suited to the needs of these customer s. On the contrary, a market that does not suit me is the American one, because of how I choose to build a suit, which for me should never be loose.
L’U.V. What would Made in Italy need to r emain synonymous with high quality?
P.L. I believe that all those companies that produce in Italy should be protected, but not with funding or similar initiati ves, rather with fir mer controls over how the clothes that are labelled Made in Italy are produced. We make great efforts to stay in the market and guarantee the jobs of our employees. After all, it’s not just a problem in clothing but also, for example, in food.
L’U.V. In your experience, how has the approach to “dressing as a man” changed over time?
P.L. Men are becoming more and more like women because they have become more and more demanding. They are paying more attention to f abrics, colors, combinations and accessories, from shoes to handkerchiefs to bags. Men, especially Italians, are more spoiled than in the past b ut that’s okay because it’s part of our culture.