MEMORIES OF KINGSTON CHINATOWN

Year 2021 is the 167th anniversary of the arrival of the first Chinese immigrants in Jamaica via Panama. These were Hakkas, part of the large Han ethnicity with distinct culture and dialect, [but thankfully using the same writing system, thanks to the far-sightedness of the 1st Emperor of ‘terra-cotta army’ fame]. Hakkas also differ from current Chinese, flocking to Jamaica seemingly solely for entrepreneurial reasons, although all are still universally hailed locally as “Mr./miss Chin”. These pioneers, including my parents, took the bold intrepid step of coming to a Jamaica of queer colonial weights, measures and banter, where many opened grocery shops, filling that niche to contribute to the local culture and economy. It was a decision our later generations never regretted, as the East met West in a then paradise of laid-back island life. For centuries, we Hakkas had migrated from northern China, earning our epithet, which translates as ‘guest people’, sensitive to political or economic instability/changes like ‘coal-mine canaries’. In this context, the fact that we migrated in droves [albeit reluctantly and after official “flight urgings” in the 70’s] does not bode well for the Jamaica we all still love.

Barry Street,

holds many memories for us downtown-core bred Kingstonians, and bears silent witness to Hakka Chinese-jamaican history, and Chinatown is Tong Ngin Guy in Hakka [“Chinese Street”]. What better way then, than to take a 1950’s mental tour for fellow Hakkas, all Jamaicans and other readers, for nostalgia or historical info? The fact that I can still recount all these facts [Although I have to use editorial brevity here.] over 1,500 miles away and 60 years ago, is testament to the cherished memories for a Jamaica long-past. It also helps that I was blessed by the Heaven-sent parents and spoilt rotten. My father bought a 5-foot red iron-racing car that I pedaled the length of Barry Street. This is also testament to the Jamaican constancy and slowpaced timelessness where buildings remain standing for decades although their functions change [Keystone-“estab. 1892”] unlike North America here, where moods; weather and buildings change predictably unpredictably.

The East-west Street

like other early roads was named after some longforgotten dignitary [e.g. Beeston; Sutton]. The honoree in question was most probably one Colonel Samuel Barry whose ‘hog crawle’ or pen, was the site chosen for Kingston, after the 1692 earthquake devastated Port Royal. Very early colonial Kingston had streets laid out in perfect right angled grid system and was literally bounded by West, North and East streets. The areas beyond this was composed chiefly of pens or parcels of land for cultivation and/ or livestock still evident in roads and towns e.g. Malvern; Fletcher; Slipe Pen; Greenwich. The city was divided by King Street, with 6 alternating NorthSouth lanes and streets on either side, named after saints or religious themes. Barry Street was similarly roughly in the middle, and in our time, the Western end was more commercial in keeping with its proximity to the rail, bus and shipping terminals and ports, getting more residential as we go eastwards. It started at the Railway end, which being a hub of transportation marks our forefathers’ first visits to the city. It begins at Pechon Street and the adjoining Jamaica Government Railway [JGR] train yards, other westward roads started to depart from the strict grid as they conformed to the coastline. Along these areas [“West”] we could safely go then into zinc-fenced yards- around Salt Lane, for instance, on Saturday evenings to buy bait for whole-night fishing on Hanover Street or other wharves.

West Street

was almost exclusively for wholesalers and horse drawn buggies [mah cha] operated out of this area by two brothers.

Matthews Lane

was the home of the Chung San Bow or Chinese Press established by Mr. Lee Tom Yin. Further on was the establishment of the late Mr. Chang Hen Fah who was a well-esteemed scholarly elder at our Tsung Tsin association. Next-door was Joon Fah Fwee Gon or Chinese Benevolent Society. From its the lofty third storied heights I would look out across the reddish orange sun-burnt zinc roofs of Chinatown. Opposite was the business of the mideastern Azans dealing in fabrics.

THE CBA

The organizational counterpart of Barry Street is the Chinese Benevolent Association and associated traditional temple, with respect to cultural, spiritual, educational and economic life, and established in 1891. The building was designed and constructed by Lee Yuan Hua and its beauty was commended by then Governor Sir Henry Blake. The tallest building for many years, it was damaged in the 1907 earthquake. It is maintained and will be renovated for the 160th anniversary by current dedicated stalwart members. The current CBA Centre is located at 176 Old Hope Road in Liguanea. 1905 saw the beginning of restrictions to Chinese immigration by harsher laws. In 1910 this required a 30 pounds deposit, written and oral language test for 50 words in either English Spanish or French. Although supposedly for all, this targeted Chinese who knew little of European languages. In 1921 two ships with about 600 immigrants caused harsher laws, and lengthy negotiations by the CBA allowed immigration with deposits. In 1926 then Sir Edward Stubbs [formerly from Hong Kong] was Governor of Jamaica and relaxed migration laws. He was the guest of honour at a CBA Dinner on Sept. 21 1926, and in his speech emphasized his friendliness and support. Later In 1931, however, the government sent a diplomatic note to Hong Kong requesting that no passport be issued for immigrants to Jamaica.

The CBA was the voice of the community in these and other internal matters. It also has subsidiary organizations in the Chinese Public School [which include preparatory curriculum for English secondary schools] Beach; Sanitarium; Old Age Home; Newspaper and Cemetery. Along with the Chinese Freemason Society [Chee Kung Tong] was the center of activity such as weddings and New Year celebrations.

In 1930 CBA management was placed under an elected council and Chairman. One of these was Mr. Yap-sam, founder of the Diamond Mineral Water Co. who was re-elected a total of seven times and whose son Clive Philip Yap-sam is the current President of the Ontario chapter of the Tsung Tsin [‘the proper/right way] a worldwide organization maintaining and promoting the Hakkaian values. This typifies the generational passing of the torch/baton that marks the culture. Princess Street had Beckford Auto supplies; Man Joong Tung wholesalers with mountainous piles of sugar and grain, and where tall, dark and softspoken bookkeeper “Baboo” and the ladies would ply me with sweets. Next door were Mr. Chin Jung Yee and his daughter Daisy offering among other things, fishing lines hook and gear with which we would stock up on for our whole night fishing alluded to.

Luke Lane had a restaurant, ice cream parlour and the tonsorial establishment of Mr. Lue Fook, which in later years would become Wing Shing restaurant. Mr. Lue was one of 2 Chinese barbers that we frequented. The other being Chung Fung Gie who had his shop in the short street joining Orange Street and Luke Lane. Lee Tung Kee dealt with Chinese culinary and pharmaceutical items which traditionally were never far apart. The sidewalks around this corner would be occupied by East Indian ladies offering fresh green leafy vegetables and fruits for sale on weekends.

Orange Street had The Golden Cup restaurant; Government offices and businesses and what was to become John R. Wong- the first supermarket in Kingston.

Peters Lane had Nathan’s store with one of the first elevators in which I would look for the Four Aces cigarette ad-sign flashing by- the sprawling solid concrete main Government Post Office buildings [GPO] was here before it went to South camp road; on the NW corner was The Premiere Storewhich I well remember because it dealt with harmonicas or mouth organs and Viewmaster stereoslide viewers –some of the toys which my dear parents spoilt me rotten with.

King Street had the venerable Barclays Bank and Court Houses.

Temple lane had Rothmans agency. Church Street had the record shops Wonards and Chins, and Mutual Life Insurance with the small statue of the armoured knight protecting the kneeling woman and child over the door;

Mark lane – and residences of Georgian architecture now began to predominatewith 2 set of concrete steps outside, forming a triangle with a flat area in front of double French doors, ceiling and cellars were roomy and the vertically sliding windows had sash weights.

Duke Street displaced Church Street as the lawyers’ street. The Manton and Hart Building was one of the first high rise and I watched its construction while waiting for the No 4 JOS bus to go to Wolmers’s School.

Johns lane had the mysterious German embassy with the double-headed eagle on the glass doors. Here was also Louis Barton’s selling Black and Decker and other tools. Upstairs was the office of Dr. A.G. Lee where I got the new polio shot.

East street had Mr. Shim’s Zanzibar liquor store; a photo studio;

Brownies bicycles; Hercules agency where you bought methylated spirits, Jeyes fluid and other chemicals. Now we are going beyond the ancient city limits into my home turf.

Georges Lane had a bakery and Mastertons, heavy machinery yard and retail outlet.

Hanover street had The Rose Leon Beauticians’ School - The proprietress was a lovely lady, active in politics and knew my father- she met a sad end around the 70’s when she suffocated when gagged during a hold-up. There was also a church and Sam Isaacs’s funeral parlour nearby -the juxtaposition of the brothel, church and undertaker was the butt of schoolboy jokes as it was said that the services of these establishment were required in turn by unfortunate clients of the latter. Although once exclusive, Hanover Street in the 60’s was synonymous with being the red light district although there were a few decent business residence along its length, like the Chongs ice cream parlour at Tower street where I spent a lot of time, The street was also known for its car dealership - John Crook’s BMC; Sinclair’s VW; and Robinson’s Rover.

Rum lane;

Rosemary lane had the Seven Stars bakery; a bar was operated at SW corner by dear Linda May Wong an astute and kind business lady who brought class to the establishment as one rarely saw any drunk or unruly patrons- I have pleasant memories of smelling the fragrant rum and hearing records of Dean Martin’s lovely crooning baritone “returnnn to meeee….” [Which she seemed to love] emanating from behind the saloon type doors; my shop and birthplace was opposite until hurricane Charlie demolished the upper story and we swapped shop with Aston a block away.

Maiden Lane had tenement yards and a bar which loved to play Fats Domino’s Blueberry Hill; my shop at 28 Barry Street where I spent my teenage years was here; The Harts butchery was opposite as was a house of ill repute.

Gold Street, Foster Lane, Highholborn Street, Ladd Lane and Fleet Street follow. We end at the Barry Street or Barnes gully which is part of a drainage system which the city forefathers had the foresight to construct as it must have staved off many a catastrophic flood.

Sources: Lee Tom Yin The Chinese in Jamaica 1963 edition; The Chee Kung Tong Centenary Anniversary 1887-1987 magazine; Jamaican Archives