Redefined Gastronomy
Jamaica Pegasus Executive Chef Mark Cole was given the herculean task on Saturday, March 2, of not only hosting the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs’ first event for 2024 but, too, of tantalising the palates of newly minted and discerning members. It was mission accomplished! Buoyed by the hotel’s General Manager Brian Sang, himself a culinarian, and his young team the gauntlet was thrown down. May the force be with those to follow!
The D’mar Events-designed room, complete with soft lighting and attendant Roaring 20s black and white images streamed on the screen during the fomalities, set the stage for what was to come: An eight-step approach to redefined gastronomy paired with wines from Select Brands and introduced by Debra Taylor-smith, the company’s luxury portfolio manager.
Amuse-bouche: Opening Darb The Yellowfin Tuna Roll/tropical Fruits/ Dehydrated Apple/parsley and Cilantro with a Gastric/lime and Coconut Jelly Vodka Shooter released the requisite frisson! The freshness of the chilled tuna, a single mouthful from chopsticks washed down with the ice-cold vodka shooter. Chef’s kisses in abundance from the get-go!
The palates were more than ready for Roaring Rack, a controlled explosion of spices, curry, pineapple and ginger salsa, roasted red bell pepper caviar jerk curried goat paired with the bold 2018 Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello Di Montalcino, from Tuscany, Italy. Bellissimo! Soup followed. What could Chef Cole offer palates still salivating after the jerk curried goat? Clearly he was ahead of us! Waiters returned with Cream of Parsnip and Potato BBQ Pigtail Cigar/balsamic Glaze/roasted Cinnamon Cream/sautéed Leek. ‘The power of pigtail must never be underestimated, is all we’ll say.
The fruity notes of 2018 Rustenberg Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa proved the perfect complement.
Copacetic was the header that described Course # 4: Nasturtium Leaf/rice Paper/crispy Braised Duck Breast/warm Sake with ginger and soya sauce reduction paired with 2021 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Edition No1, Loire Valley, France. The duck, truth be told, with sufficient pink to maintain flavour and texture, could have been served by itself. Chef Cole showed his expertise by ensuring that the duck remained the star of the show.
The Pan-seared Lobster/ Cherry Tomatoes/capers/brown Butter/fresh Fennel/raspberry/ Grilled Beans, based on the many satisfied purrs, was without a doubt the cat’s meow! Pouring the 2021 William Fevre Chablis, Burgundy, France was deemed tout à fait à propos!
Emphasis throughout was placed on visually appealing plates, taste and excellent delivery of service. All boxes were ticked, with the breezer eliciting
wows as waiters placed frozen iced domes a table cocooning a spoon of Dragon Fruit/watermelon and Scotch Bonnet Sorbet.
Thursday Food was told by Chef Cole that it took five days to prepare and would be consumed in five seconds!
The penultimate course: Real Mccoy, Mini Tenderloin/ sage and grilled Chanterelle Mushroom Duxelles/red Wine Sorrel Glaze/asparagus Beetroot Mash juxtaposed against the soft-buttery puff pastry, served with 2018 Marques de Murrieta Reserva, Rioja, Spain, hushed the buzz inside the Legacy Suite.
Speakeasy: Jackfruit crême brûlée/blue Mountain wild berries/deep fried Chocolate Bread Pudding/crème de Menthe Chocolate Tea brought the curtains down in spectacular style.
Editor’s Note:
•Founded at The Half Moon Hotel in 1985, the first dinner of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Jamaica Bailliage was hosted at the Wyndham Rose Hall Resort Hotel and Golf Club.
• The Jamaica chapter is the oldest and largest bailliage in the Caribbean and is part of the United States Bailliage.
• It is one of nine bailliages making up the Atlantic/caribbean Islands Region.
•Jamaica has the highest percentage of professionals in the Caribbean.
•Jamaica has more than 10 members who are designated as ‘Commandeur’, having a minimum of 20 years’ service in the Chaîne.
• Jamaica has three “Officier Commandeurs”, members with over 30 years’ service in the Chaîne.
• In 2007, The Hans Schenk Foundation was started to help develop young chefs and assist in their education.
• The 30th anniversary was celebrated in December 2015 in grand style at Couples Sans Souci Resort.
• The Société Mondiale du Vin is an organisation within the Chaîne which was created to promote the enjoyment, knowledge and understanding of fine wines and crafted beverages. The Mondiale in Jamaica started in 2009 and now comprises over 50 members.