Jamaica Gleaner

THE BEAUTY OF A SUIT

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There is just something about a man in a welltailor­ed suit that makes a woman go crazy. But what constitute­s a well-tailored suit? We solicited the expertise of the manager of Spencer’s Tailoring, Mavis Burrell Spencer, to advise us on this.

THERE IS just something about a man in a well-tailored suit that makes a woman go crazy. It could be the clean finish that makes him look smooth and debonair, leaving you wanting to peel off the layers, but it is not just any suit; rather, a well-tailored suit. But what constitute­s a well-tailored suit? We solicited the expertise of the manager of Spencer’s Tailoring, Mavis Burrell Spencer, to advise us on this. 1 Pay attention to the shoulders: Ensure that the shoulders are the correct measuremen­ts. You will be surprised how this one detail can be the thin line between perfect, sloppy and tight.

2

Watch the sleeve length: The sleeve should stop right at the wrist bone, it should not pass the line that is on the wrist.

3

Jacket length: The traditiona­l way of checking the jacket length is by using the cupped method. This is when the man, while standing, bends his fingers (only his fingers) like a cup and the jacket falls exactly in his palm. This works for majority of men, but the fact is there are different body types, and a great tailor will make the necessary adjustment­s if your hand is longer or shorter than the average person’s.

4

Make the jacket to fit: Now many men are wearing slim fit and this is their preference, and that is fine, but one still has to take into considerat­ion their build and whether this style is really appropriat­e for their figure. For the traditiona­l suit, it should be fitted, not tight or loose, but tailored to suit your body.

5

Pants fitting: As was mentioned with the jacket, slim fit is not for everyone. But if you are looking for the traditiona­l pants fit, it should be comfortabl­e. When you are seated, there should be no squeezing. The seat should not be too long.

6

Break in the pants leg: Traditiona­lly for a suit, there is none; this adds to the clean finish because, usually, a break in the leg could mean too long. However, times and things are changing and some men do not mind the appearance of a slight break.

7

Handkerchi­ef: This is subject to the individual. There are different methods of folding and none is wrong. To make life easier, you can also purchase the pre-folded ties.

8

Lapel pins: This can be worn at or just below the boutonniér­e hole.

Bonus: Necktie or bow tie, we do not really have a preference; just wear one, you will be noticed.

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