The 9th arrondissement

When evening falls, catch a taxi to the 9th arrondissement, once famous for its Moulin Rouge, but now a hot spot for young, talented chefs and restaurateurs. Check out the Modern French fare at the hip, yet intimate, Richer. The seasonal menu changes often and the dishes are surprisingly sophisticated. It may be difficult to save room for dessert. But do. Richer doesn’t accept reservations, so go early. If you prefer to book, try L’office, just down the street and run by the same team.