Itaewon-dong /이태원

This once tacky street in the middle of expat-land is in the midst of a renaissance with a growing number of good bars, clubs and eateries, though you might still get accosted by vendors selling crud. It’s mostly cash-only, so bring a wad of it, but if caught short, there is an international ATM at the Hamilton Hotel by Itaewon Stn exit #2. Start at Itaewon Market /이태원시장/ (aka the Underground Market) / closed Tue / next to McDonald’s. You’ll have to wade through piles of fakes here, but the dedicated vogue digger will be rewarded with pieces of faux Marc, DVF and Miu Miu at laughably low prices. Now, back you come onto street level, just a couple of doors on your right, directly above Corner Bag Shop and up a slim staircase is the conveniently placed Quick Alterations / 3/F / 794 8218 / should your booty need fiddling with; along the way are carts selling shades, wallets and whatnot. Now, cross at the crossing, carry on and turn left into Sinseong-gil for fresh Med fare at OKitchen (see Rest./Relaxed). Continue on the main drag and you’ll find the rather fabulous North Beach (see Adv. Shop.), and further along is Brasserie Un Deux Trois / 796 1244 / brasserie123. com / full of Provençal flair. Pass Hamilton Hotel (int’l ATMs on g/f) and B One Lounge Club (see Clubs), and directly across the road find Hilton Custom Tailor (see V. Useful), who won’t excite the Savile Row clan but has a loyal fanbase. Exit right and totter down to find urban Korean fashion base Å LAND / 1566 7477 / and next door restos Thai Orchid / 795 3338; and Euro-chic Spain Club / 795 1118. Cross the street, head left back towards Hamilton Hotel and espy trendy Macaroni Market (see Brunch) on the 2/F above Italian café La Bocca / 790 5907 / then pass two buildings for Between (see Rest./Relaxed). At the four-way intersection with the 119 Fire Station. Turn right at Itaewon-ro 27-gil, then left at the first lane (parallel behind the Hamilton Hotel), which is packed like a tubber’s undies with bars, clubs and restos. First up on the right are beachy lounger The Bungalow / 793 2344; and Gecko’s Avenue (see Rest./ Relaxed); followed by burger joint Smokey Saloon / 795 9019 / on the left. A few more steps down, directly behind the Hamilton Hotel, you’ll find a branch of K-BBQ spot Maple Tree House (see Rest./Casual); and District (see Bars). Straight on 150m into the alley, going past resto-lounge My Noodle / 790 5056 / on the right is Luv Superlounge / 794 8898; and around the left corner is Mi Casa / 790 0063 / for a wellearned tapas break. If you’ve still got some steam left in you, you’re just a short cab ride away from the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art and the War Memorial Museum (see Activities/Museum Moments for both), or N Seoul Tower, Namsan Park and its cable car (see Activities/Site Seeing), and not far from The Shilla Seoul (see Accom.) with the delicious Guerlain Spa (see Spa). Oh, go on, treat yourself.