Kyungin Museum of Fine Art

/ / / 733 4448 / kyunginart.co.kr / for culture and a cuppa at cute hideaway / 730 6305. Facing the museum gate is 733 9240 / koong.co.kr / the area’s oldest and tastiest North Korean dumpling spot. Exiting the Kyungin left, nip left again and a few steps down you’ll find a backstreet packed with food stalls; try / 735 8552 / for grilled meat and bamboo-steamed rice, best enjoyed with liqueurs like makkeolli or dongdongju. Or, opposite is

for a fancy bite and wine in 30s architecture. Retrace your steps to the main street and continue to find / on the left with neat ceramics, art and furny. Exit, keep left and spin left into the next alley, following it round to find

run by a dear old ex-monk in suspect footwear. Grab a veggie snack if so inclined. Leave the alley the way you came in and turn left at the main road. Across the strip espy kan.co.kr / an homage to all things – you guessed it. At the four-way intersection are 8233 / for gorgey rice paper, and원떡집/ 733 9009 / for rice cake morsels to go. Keep going and at the next corner turn right, then shoot straight for the end of the lane to power up with Korean green teas, herbal mixes, pastries, and retail at the 735 6678 / in a hanok with pretty skylit atrium. Cha-aaah!