Edgy styles attract
Off-White opens Paris Week
PARIS, June 21, (AP): The fashion circus of magazine editors, bloggers, photographers and buyers cried “Bonjour Paris” Wednesday as the first full day of menswear fashion shows kicked off in the French capital.
Edgy brand Off-White drew renewed attention at its show, thanks to the meteoric rise of its African-American designer Virgil Abloh — now chief of Louis Vuitton menswear. While, Valentino brought in the celebrities. Some highlights of the spring and summer menswear shows:
Off-White
The parents of American-Ghanaian designer Virgil Abloh were the image of pride as they sat front row at Off-White — the Milan-based house their son founded in 2013 — in the sweltering Palace of Chaillol that overlooks the Eiffel Tower.
They had jetted to Paris for the first time from Rockford, Illinois to support their son, who on Thursday debuts his wares at the Louis Vuitton show. He’s the first African-American to head up a major European design house. Denim, denim and then more denim. That was the formula employed at the Milan-based house for spring-summer to produce a hip, urban, loose and highly masculine aesthetic.
Steel-blue denim opened the show. A denim shirt with frayed sleeve edges sported utilitarian metal zippers and was accessorized with a jangling key chain, while the hem down denim pants curved round, instead of vertically down, in a deceptively simple hip-hop style.
Oversize white T-shirts with logos, retro sneakers and an oversize color-blocked, tie-dye style coat added an on-trend whiff of the ’80s in the collection that never forgot to have fun.
The edgy styles of Off-White that have garnered Abloh a cult-like following attract diverse guests.
Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami — who’s famed for blurring the lines between high- and low-art and whom Christie’s ranks as the sixth highest-selling living artist — said he attended the show to support his friend.
“Virgil and I we’ve got a really good friendship. That’s why I’m here. But I’m very much excited about Vuitton,” he said from beneath an oversize silver toggle hat.
Valentino
NBA star James Harden joined rappers A$AP Ferg and Nas in giving Valentino’s front row a serious dose of street cred.
Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli long has said he wants to make Valentino appealing to young men, — and the collection presented Wednesday was the best attempt to date despite the venue — the ornate Museum of Decorative Arts, located inside the former Louvre Palace.
Feathered Brit-pop hats, sneakers, billowing oversize trench coats and baggy patterned tracksuit bottoms gave the spring-summer aesthetic a relaxed-feeling. It was a style the fashion house summed up as “street encounters couture.”
The 62-look collection, which had gentle fuchsias, mint greens, pinks, whites and blacks in the palette, took the Italian designer’s previous dalliance with logos to the next level.
Facetasm
Designer Hiromichi Ochiai didn’t disappoint those expecting the wackily-creative from Japanese house Facetasm.
The fashion-forward designer’s touchstone of workman’s clothes was given an unusual bridal twist in Wednesday’s collection that mixed mens’ and women’s styles, as well as punk, preppy and eclectic aesthetics.