Eclec­tic, op­ti­mistic looks at D&G

Arab Times - - NEWS/FEATURES -

MI­LAN, Sept 24, (AP): The Ital­ian fash­ion in­dus­try is mov­ing to in­ject op­ti­mism into lux­ury’s dis­mal year, stag­ing 23 live run­way shows and 37 pre­sen­ta­tions dur­ing a hy­brid live-dig­i­tal Mi­lan Fash­ion Week that aims to ex­cite con­sumers and con­nect with the buy­ing net­work.

Fendi, Dolce & Gab­bana and Bluma­rine opened the first day of mostly wom­enswear pre­views for the next spring and sum­mer on Wed­nes­day. They will be joined later in the week by Max Mara, Sal­va­tore Fer­rag­amo and Valentino, which de­camped from Paris where it nor­mally shows due to travel con­cerns re­lated to the virus.

Mi­lan stal­warts in­clud­ing Gior­gio Ar­mani, Ver­sace and Prada, which is de­but­ing its first col­lab­o­ra­tion be­tween Mi­uc­cia Prada and Raf Si­mons, opted for vir­tual shows. Some high­lights from Wed­nes­day’s shows:


Italy’s long 2-1/2 month lock­down – which also closed down fash­ion pro­duc­tion for a stretch, ex­cept for ne­ces­si­ties like face masks – gave de­sign­ers time for in­tro­spec­tion.

Sil­via Ven­turini Fendi’s mixed men’s and women‘s col­lec­tion of­fered the per­spec­tive of look­ing out from the in­side – a fa­mil­iar view for many, since the coro­n­avirus pan­demic has forced dras­tic shifts in habits.

The white show­room, fit­ted with S-shaped so­fas sep­a­rated by bil­low­ing linen cur­tains, faced a pro­jec­tion of win­dows open­ing onto shad­owy fo­liage. The im­ages were trans­posed onto di­aphanous prints lay­ered over body suits and sheaths, while the win­dows were sug­gested in stitched trim on linen suits.

Run­way lux­ury is about be­ing seen in the world – and pro­ject­ing an im­age. But the lock­downs and the shift to home work­ing have re­fo­cused de­sign­ers’ sights. For men, that meant some looser looks and lay­er­ing, with imp­ish knit bean­ies car­ry­ing the Fendi logo. A laser­cut jacket worn with Ber­muda shorts was fin­ished with slip­pers, the per­fect Zoom meet­ing look.

Women’s looks were more dis­ci­plined and so­phis­ti­cated. A fit­ted coat dress fea­tured an open neck­line, bright­en­ing the face, while an open-back knit ten­nis dress was paired with a se­vere vi­sor.

This is a sea­son for com­fort clothes, and that doesn’t just mean com­fort­able. Gar­ments of­fer some so­lace, like a silky puffer coat that co­zily en­velopes the wearer, and a feath­ery bag through which un­easy fin­gers can ruf­fle.

Coats are om­bre: Noth­ing is clear, it is all shades and shad­ows. The color palate was mostly neu­trals, black and white, with some flashes of red and pink. The sil­hou­ettes were clean and invit­ing, in­clud­ing bell sleeves on a straight coat dress, to crisp apron de­tails over dresses and skirts, to a wavy sheer azure lace over a shirt dress.

Dolce & Gab­bana

Dolce & Gab­bana’s op­ti­mism came through in an eclec­tic, en­er­getic col­lec­tion in­spired by Si­cil­ian patch­work, mix­ing and match­ing pat­terns and fab­rics for 98 looks that con­tain quite lit­er­ally some­thing for ev­ery­one.

The col­lec­tion ranged from sartorial three-piece suits to sleek evening dresses to fes­ti­val-ready patch­work jeans and bo­hemian chic flow­ing skirts with tur­bans.

The de­sign­ers’ notes un­der­lined the crafts­man­ship be­hind the looks, and said they hoped to in­spire “sus­tain­able fash­ion within a new gen­er­a­tion”. They stopped short of say­ing the patch­work was de­rived from the cut­ting room floor – but the Si­cil­ian-in­spired prints from tiles to flo­rals, cit­rus to polka dots, will be fa­mil­iar to the brand’s fol­low­ers.

Lay­ers of golden jew­elry, big belts and D&G-logo ear­rings fin­ished the looks. Footwear ranged from patch­work boots to sneak­ers to pumps

De­sign­ers Domenico Dolce & Ste­fano Gab­bana have made clear their com­mit­ment to the run­way show and the en­ergy it gen­er­ates. They were only one of two fash­ion houses that held a live show in July, just weeks af­ter Italy’s lock­down ended, choos­ing an out­door venue at a teach­ing hos­pi­tal work­ing on coro­n­avirus re­search.


Bluma­rine’s new 29-year-old de­signer, Ni­cola Brog­nano, man­aged the ini­tial stages of his de­but col­lec­tion un­der lock­down. “I found I had more time to think of how to cre­ate the col­lec­tion. From one side, the lock­down was a help,” Brog­nano said.

Ba­sic choices for the ul­tra-fem­i­nine brand’s new di­rec­tion had been made be­fore Italy’s gov­ern­ment or­dered the na­tion­wide clo­sure, and the new de­signer worked with his team over chats and video meet­ings to per­fect his vi­sion.

Brongano kept the brand’s rose mo­tifs, but made then blurry on prints, em­broi­dered on jeans, or as pe­tal de­tails on chif­fon skirts. Kit­ten sweaters were paired with elon­gated jeans with slits. Mini-dresses wrapped the frame, then were given the il­lu­sion of length with trail­ing straps.

He con­trasted pas­tels with stronger shades of yel­low and pink for a con­tem­po­rary state­ment. And he played with the logo, spell­ing out Bluma­rine on crys­tal belts and elab­o­rate fas­ci­na­tors.

“The idea was to leave the past and to start a new story,” he said.

Strict rules were be­ing ob­served dur­ing Mi­lan’s live run­way shows. So­cial dis­tanc­ing must be main­tained back­stage and in the shows. Mod­els were re­quired to wear masks dur­ing line­ups, be­fore tak­ing to the run­way.

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