Vuit­ton gives star-filled happy end­ing to dark Paris sea­son

Kuwait Times - - LIFESTYLE -

The Louis Vuit­ton red car­pet was rolled out at the his­toric Place Ven­dome yes­ter­day for a much­needed happy end­ing to a dark Paris Fash­ion Week sea­son, marred by the mul­ti­mil­lion-dol­lar heist of Kim Kar­dashian West’s jew­elry. A roll call of ac­tresses in­clud­ing Ali­cia Vikan­der, Jen­nifer Con­nelly, Michelle Wil­liams, So­phie Turner and a heav­ily preg­nant Lea Sey­doux joined tennis star Roger Fed­erer in the front row - pos­ing with Vuit­ton’s lauded de­signer Ni­co­las Gh­esquiere. And what a show it was. Here are the high­lights of yes­ter­day’s ready-to-wear col­lec­tions, cap­ping the spring-sum­mer 2017 sea­son.

Louis Vuit­ton: The clothes

In Gh­esquiere’s finest col­lec­tion since restyling the house in 2013, the French de­signer ex­posed his pas­sion for the ‘80s and riffed on sci­ence fic­tion. Big hair, big shoul­ders, big sparkle, big prints, big eyes: that was the mantra for spring-sum­mer. Bold sun­set-shaped eye make-up that stretched from ear to ear set­ting the fash­ion dial firmly to the age of Glam Rock. That era was also known for its ob­ses­sion with sci-fi films, ref­er­enced by Gh­esquiere in three-di­men­sional stereo-sound in this 45-piece show.

Styles that evoked Star Wars were seen in lozenge patches over the bust, curved asym­met­ri­cal forms on shirts with metal­lic sheer over­lay, tu­nic-like gowns with boots, and ar­mor-like white shoul­der pads that looked like they might have been snipped from the back of a Darth Vader para­trooper. But the beauty of this col­lec­tion was in its re­mark­able stylish sil­hou­ettes and the deft­ness of the cuts that made it a more grown-up dis­play that we’ve be­come used to. A loose gray jacket with struc­tured, mush­room-shaped over­size sleeves pro­duced a stylish sil­hou­ette as it gen­tly curved out at the bot­tom - in al­most de­con­structed patches. The de­signer, who re­vi­tal­ized Ba­len­ci­aga dur­ing his ten­ure there from 1997 to 2012, seems to be do­ing the same at Louis Vuit­ton.

US am­bas­sador bids farewell

Ever since Jane D Hart­ley be­came US am­bas­sador to France in Oc­to­ber 2014, the well-groomed diplo­mat has been a reg­u­lar face on the front rows of ma­jor shows such as Chris­tian Dior and Louis Vuit­ton. But her ap­pear­ance at Louis Vuit­ton’s spring-sum­mer show in their new store in the Place Ven­dome will be her last. The 66year-old, who sat in the front row next to LVMH’s Bernard and Del­phine Ar­nault, and spoke to the AP on her pas­sion for fash­ion and her sad­ness to bid farewell to the spec­tac­u­lar Paris shows.

“Oh, I will def­i­nitely miss (the Paris shows). For sure,” she said, wear­ing a black Vuit­ton T-shirt with sil­ver zigzags. “It’s won­der­ful be­ing in Paris and be­ing at these shows and the beauty and the style. I’m lucky,” she said. “I think it’s such an im­por­tant in­dus­try here, but it’s an im­por­tant in­dus­try back in the US too. It’s beau­ti­ful, it’s cre­ative - but we re­ally can’t for­get it’s a job cre­ator on both sides of the At­lantic and I’m hugely sup­port­ive of this in­dus­try. I’ve also seen what fash­ion can to re­vi­tal­ize a city and give a city life,” she added. The am­bas­sador, the sec­ond woman to serve in this po­si­tion af­ter Pamela Har­ri­man (1993-1997) and will leave her post fol­low­ing Novem­ber’s US pres­i­den­tial elec­tion.

Mon­cler Gamme Rouge

A bar­ren desert and rugged boul­ders pro­vided a sort of fash­ion as­sault-course for Mon­cler Gamme Rouge’s bat­tle-tested mod­els in the French mil­i­tary-in­spired yes­ter­day show. Hy­brids of the hard, round shiny-tipped hats worn by the French For­eign Le­gion were the opener. And in case there was any doubt about the French army theme, de­signer Gi­ambat­tista Valli be­gan to use sashes with the French tri­color flag across round-col­lar tops - with the famed red, white and blue color com­bi­na­tion re­peated on Vel­cro straps on sneak­ers.

Straps, for per­haps a para­chute, struc­tured a ‘60sstyle, sporty mini-dress in stone. And even when the sig­na­ture flow­ers fi­nally ap­peared (Valli fa­mously loves his blooms), even then, they were imag­ined as a print on an X-shaped dress that evoked the mil­i­tary through its stiff­ness and shoul­der epaulettes. It was an in­ter­est­ing and fo­cused dis­play.

— AFP pho­tos

Mod­els present cre­ations for Louis Vuit­ton dur­ing the 2017 Spring/Sum­mer ready-to-wear col­lec­tion fash­ion show, yes­ter­day in Paris.

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