Chanel aims high with starry 'Eif­fel Tower' Paris show

Kuwait Times - - LIFESTYLE -

The ever-au­da­cious Karl Lager­feld proved he is still nim­ble when it comes to putting on a fash­ion show. The 83year-old had a 46-ton Eif­fel Tower recre­ated in­side the Grand Palais for the plea­sure of his Chanel cou­ture celebrity guests. Paris Mayor Anne Hi­dalgo re­turned the love by pre­sent­ing him with the city's high­est honor. Here are some high­lights from the fall-win­ter 2017 shows Tues­day at Paris Haute Cou­ture Week. Eif­fel Tower in the Grand Palais Hall

"Does it go through the roof?" asked a be­mused fash­ion insider, point­ing at the ceil­ing of the Grand Palais ex­hi­bi­tion hall in Paris It was a fair ques­tion. The 38-me­ter (125-foot) replica of Paris' most iconic mon­u­ment that greeted Chanel's cou­ture guests seemed to ex­tend past the famed hall's glass roof thanks to the il­lu­sion of swirling clouds cre­ated by steam. Back at ground level, celebri­ties in­clud­ing Ju­lianne Moore, Katy Perry, Kris­ten Stewart, Phar­rell Wil­liams and Tilda Swin­ton were shown to metal seats in real sand and gravel.

"It's ex­tra­or­di­nary to come into the Grand Palais, which is awe­some at the best of any time, but to stand un­der the tour Eif­fel is ex­tra­or­di­nary. Only Chanel," Swin­ton said. The woodand-steel tower, which took work­men six weeks to make, was a stun­ning piece of crafts­man­ship. It copied nearly beam for beam the col­umns and metal twists of the ed­i­fice made by Gus­tave Eif­fel for the 1889 Univer­sal Ex­hi­bi­tion. Chanel goes turn-of-the-cen­tury

The dawn of the 20th cen­tury - the pe­riod fol­low­ing the Eif­fel Tower's con­struc­tion - was the creative touch­stone for Chanel's win­tery-look­ing cou­ture. The first model strode out in sun­light fil­tered by wrought-iron col­umns to set the tone of the graphic, steel-col­ored col­lec­tion. She wore a wide-hipped, char­coal gray coat with ex­ag­ger­ated leg-of-mut­ton arms styles that harkened to the Belle Epoque pe­riod.

This clever his­toric mus­ing con­tin­ued with flat­tened bowler hats and black patent lace-up an­kle boots pop­u­lar be­fore World War I. Flour­ish­ing bou­quets of plumes then shot out from wrists, an­kles and shoul­ders in evening wear. "In this col­lec­tion, there are feath­ers treated like fur," Lager­feld ex­plained. But the de­signer re­lied on myr­iad ref­er­ences for a show whose one uni­fy­ing theme might have been sim­ply the Parisi­enne.

"It's a vi­sion of a re­vived Parisian woman. It is all about cut, shapes, sil­hou­ettes," he added. Sig­na­ture tweed jack­ets were reimag­ined as long tu­nics, or cropped and dou­ble-breasted. Then it got arty. Me­chan­i­cal Art Deco mo­tifs gave a 1920s flair to black froufrou gowns that evoked the paint­ings of Robert De­lau­nay. Their frothy, flower em­bel­lish­ments at the hem gave the sil­hou­ette a vi­brant dy­namic. Mini-dresses in tweed, retro bateau col­lars and bows un­der the bust mixed in a dash of the 1960s. Thigh-high boots added a hint of con­tem­po­rary provo­ca­tion. Lager­feld hon­ored by Paris

The Ger­man-born Lager­feld was awarded Paris' high­est honor - the "La Medaille Grand Ver­meil" - by Mayor Anne Hi­dalgo for ser­vice to the city he's called home for seven decades. And there was per­haps no bet­ter site for such an award than be­neath a replica of the Eif­fel Tower. "Paris gives you its thanks and its love through this Grand Sil­ver Gilt medal ... which is our city's high­est award," Hi­dalgo said in front of a celebrity au­di­ence, in­clud­ing mod­els Clau­dia Schif­fer and Cara Delev­ingne. "From the bot­tom of our hearts, thank you. Paris loves you. You are Paris."

Lager­feld, a con­tem­po­rary of the late fash­ion icon Yves Saint Lau­rent, has been at the fore­front of Paris fash­ion since the 1960s, de­sign­ing for Chloe be­fore tak­ing over Chanel in 1983. Al­though he doesn't see him­self as French, the de­signer pro­fessed his love for the City of Light. "I am a for­eigner and I in­tend to stay a for­eigner be­cause for­eign­ers see Paris and France through a dif­fer­ent eye," he said, ac­cept­ing the award. "And when you are not French, you look with­out na­tion­al­ism or pa­tri­o­tism... Long live Paris." Gior­gio Ar­mani Prive

Kate Winslet, Is­abelle Hup­pert, Priyanka Cho­pra and Ital­ian cinema icon Sophia Loren led the front row at Gior­gio Ar­mani Prive's demure yet play­ful col­lec­tion. As ever, it was clas­sic glam­our. The leit­mo­tif of small cone hats and sen­sual face veils gave the silken 61-piece show a feel for the the­atri­cal­ity of the 1920s. Large black neck ruffs evoked a har­lequin. And a black cape with fuch­sia flo­ral em­broi­deries was con­ceived by the fash­ion le­gend in gar­gan­tuan pro­por­tions - vis­ually over­pow­er­ing the model's body.

But Ar­mani's fall-win­ter cou­ture sil­hou­ette was all about the chest. An open menswear tuxedo jacket with peaked shoul­ders ex­posed the flesh un­der­neath. Else­where, a neck­line on a pale blue top plunged dar­ingly and was given a taste­ful lift with a broach de­tail un­der the bust. Beau­ti­ful black gowns in or­ganza and satin - with huge full skirts - also ex­posed the shoul­ders and the chest. Alexis Ma­bille's Vin­tage Cou­ture

The fash­ion his­tory books seemed to have been con­sulted on more than one oc­ca­sion ahead of this sea­son's cou­ture with age-old styles waft­ing in the Parisian air. French fash­ion de­signer Alexis Ma­bille headed for the 1860s to pro­duce a short but beau­ti­fully ex­e­cuted col­lec­tion of silk gowns.

Old gold, shim­mer­ing white, pale blue, pur­ple and sil­ver brought to life the archetyp­i­cally "cou­ture" styles ren­dered in yards of pleated silk fab­ric, em­broi­dery and thick sump­tu­ous lay­er­ing. As was the style in the mid-19th cen­tury, gowns came adorned with all the trim­mings. Ruf­fled sleeves met cas­cad­ing lay­ers that formed dif­fer­ent sec­tions in a wed­ding cake style. Rib­bons were tied around the midriff, and tas­sels hung off waist-bind­ing belts. The sump­tu­ous de­signs might have suited Scar­lett O'Hara or any belle of the ball. — AP

A pic­ture taken on July 4, 2017 shows a replica of the Eif­fel Tower as part of the set for the Chanel 2017-2018 fall/win­ter Haute Cou­ture col­lec­tion at the Grand Palais in Paris. — AFP photos

Paris' Mayor Anne Hi­dalgo awards the Grand Ver­meil De La Ville De Paris medal to Ger­man fash­ion de­signer Karl Lager­feld af­ter Chanel 2017-2018 fall/win­ter Haute Cou­ture col­lec­tion.

Ger­man model Clau­dia Schif­fer.

US ac­tress Kris­ten Stewart.

US singer Katy Perry (left) and US singer Phar­rell Wil­liams.

Bri­tish model and ac­tress Cara Delev­ingne.

Bri­tish ac­tress Tilda Swin­ton.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Kuwait

© PressReader. All rights reserved.