De­signer Bouchra Jar­rar quits trou­bled fash­ion la­bel Lan­vin

Kuwait Times - - LIFESTYLE -

De­signer Bouchra Jar­rar has quit Lan­vin, the trou­bled Paris la­bel con­firmed Thurs­day, only 10 months af­ter she showed her first col­lec­tion there. The 46-year-old closed her own la­bel last March so she could ded­i­cate her­self to re­viv­ing France's old­est fash­ion house. But it soon be­came clear that all was not well within the house, which has been in tur­moil since the shock sack­ing of its pre­vi­ous de­signer Al­ber El­baz in 2015.

In a short state­ment late Thurs­day, Lan­vin said they had "mu­tu­ally de­cided to put an end to their col­lab­o­ra­tion". The pop­u­lar El­baz had brought Lan­vin, founded in 1889, back from the edge of obliv­ion be­fore he fell afoul of its for­mi­da­ble owner, Tai­wanese me­dia mag­nate Shaw-Lan Wang. The la­bel sank 18.3 mil­lion eu­ros into the red last year, its first loss for a decade.

Jar­rar's two col­lec­tions for the la­bel were warmly re­ceived for their "sober el­e­gance" by crit­ics, and last week she was made an of­fi­cer of France's pres­ti­gious Or­der of Arts and Let­ters for her ser­vices to fash­ion. But with morale low in the brand's work­shop amid an ex­o­dus of tal­ent af­ter El­baz's de­par­ture, and ru­mors of fur­ther fric­tion over bud­get cuts, her exit was not un­ex­pected. In March, Jar­rar hinted that she was not get­ting the sup­port that she needed to turn the la­bel around.

"I want to bring my ex­per­tise, cre­ativ­ity, tech­ni­cal know-how and prag­ma­tism" to the brand, she told the South China Morn­ing Post. For that "I need the whole house's sup­port. Alone it's im­pos­si­ble," she added. In the state­ment con­firm­ing her de­par­ture, Jar­rar said she wished to "par­tic­u­larly ac­knowl­edge the work of the teams with whom I col­lab­o­rated to ex­press French cre­ativ­ity and know-how." French-born Jar­rar, whose par­ents come from Morocco, started de­sign­ing early, hav­ing learned to sew from her fa­ther.

She spent a decade at Ba­len­ci­aga un­der Ni­co­las Gh­esquiere be­fore be­com­ing head of haute cou­ture at Chris­tian Lacroix, build­ing up a loyal fol­low­ing for her min­i­mal­ist and quintessen­tially French chic look of sharply cut tuxedo and leather jack­ets and pea coats. Wang and Lan­vin's other ma­jor share­holder, Swiss busi­ness­man Ralph Bar­tel, plan to re­cap­i­tal­ize the com­pany and re-launch the brand, ac­cord­ing to the French busi­ness mag­a­zine Chal­lenges. — AFP

This file photo shows French fash­ion de­signer for Lan­vin, Bouchra Jar­rar, left, ac­knowl­edg­ing the au­di­ence at the end of her women's Fall-Win­ter 20172018 ready-to-wear col­lec­tion fash­ion show in Paris.

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