Raising the bar: Local brews making a comeback in Syria

DAMASCUS: For years, Abu George’s bar in Damascus’s Old City served imported beers under portraits of famous foreigners Che Guevara and Marilyn Monroe-but the brews on offer now are Syrian-made. When war broke out in 2011, Syria’s two main breweries halted production, leaving consumers sipping on foreign, and more expensive, beers. But as fighting has subsided across much of the country this year, a new pair of local lagers has hit the markets.

Tiny pubs line a cramped alleyway in the historic heart of Syria’s capital, where a group of girls dressed in white distribute free bottles of “Afamia” to passers-by. Customers at Abu George’s bar reach out for a few of the brown bottles, emblazoned with a blue and gold label proclaiming Afamia to be the “Beer of Syria”.

“It’s a lovely initiative,” says Ghassan Salloum, who coowns the popular watering hole. “The beer will be wellreceived-people want a national brew.” The bearded 61-yearold floats between tables to top up the bowls of salted peanuts that inevitably accompany chilled ales, as loud music drowns out the clinking of beer bottles. “I’ve been here for 20 years, since a time when the national beer was really in demand,” Salloum says, and Syrian spirits have continued to be a favorite. Before 2011, two local brews dominated the Syrian market: Barada, produced at a brewery outside Damascus, and Al-Sharq, based in second city Aleppo.

Al-Sharq shuttered its doors as violence in Aleppo escalated. The Barada brewery was ravaged by fighting, with Syria’s government blaming “extremists” and rebels accusing the army of shelling it. “I was very sad when the war destroyed the breweries, so today I’m happy to have Syrian beer again,” said Elias, a 27-year-old customer at Abu George’s. He sipped on a cool Afamia, named after the celebrated city of Apamea in central Syria. The Afamia brewery on the eastern edge of Damascus had been all prepped for production in 2010, but after Syria’s conflict broke out early the next year, the factory shut down and the lagers never hit the stores. — AFP