Lebanon Traveler

Souks

Whether you’re looking to buy traditiona­l crafts or simply soak up the atmosphere, Lebanon’s old souks are definitely worth venturing into. We go on an adventure with culture enthusiast

- Nadine Chemali. Tripoli. Photo: Joe Sokhn

BAALBECK

Dating back to the Ottoman period, Baalbeck’s authentic souk — made up of butcher shops, bakeries and spice shops — is not to be missed. Try the raw meat at Abou Mhadi (+961 70 883468) and Lebanese desserts like nammoura with ashta at Al Jawhari Sweets (+961 8 370240). The sfiha is also delicious, and you can pick up some tasty tannour bread too.

BATROUN

The old souk of Batroun is a pleasant cobbleston­e market with curved sandstone arches.it is made up of several lanes where old crafts are still practiced by tailors, cobblers and blacksmith­s.

Refresh with a cold glass of lemonade from Hilmi's (+961 70 173036) or Patisserie RIM (+961 6 740121) as you meander through the pretty streets.

BYBLOS

Built during the Ottoman era, the old souk of Byblos is one of Lebanon’s most famous tourist attraction­s. It is made up of small shops selling souvenirs, local crafts and antiques. There are also restaurant­s, cozy cafés and lively bars.

Interestin­g places to visit in the souk include: Memory of Time (+961 9 540555), a fossil museum; Byblos Wax Museum (+961 9 540463), highlighti­ng scenes from the Phoenician era; Gibran’s Lebanon (+961 9 542226), showcasing books written by celebrated Lebanese authors like Amin Maalouf, Alexandre Najjar and Gibran Khalil Gibran; Eddé’s Herbs (+961 3 742332), where you can find aromatic herbs and spices; and the 12th-century cathedral of Saint John Mark.

DOUMA

Douma is a traditiona­l Lebanese village with stone houses featuring red-tiled roofs, noise-free streets and a charming souk. Its souk — referred to as "Al Bandar" — played a significan­t role in strengthen­ing the town’s economy by carrying goods from Damascus and the Bekaa, as well as cedar wood to build ships.

It is picture-perfect with its arcaded stone shops and ancient monasterie­s and churches. There are quaint stores selling local and artisanal crafts and inexpensiv­e goods. Previously, there were tailor shops, shoemakers, woodcarver­s and furniture manufactur­ers.

Today, the renovated souk is quiet.

Many of the stores that remain open sell delicacies such as halawa and loukoum. The Doumanian Coffee Shop (+961 71 186622) is a well-known spot to enjoy some Lebanese specialtie­s, and Zahlawi (+961 6 520717) is the place for delicious ice cream. You can also pass by the heritage museum near the souk to learn more about the history of Douma.

JEZZINE

Souk El Sedd stands in the heart of Jezzine, where you can discover many craft shops selling the region’s famous firebird cutlery. Visit Abdelnour (+961 3 719602), Abou Rashed (+961 7 780082), Aoun (+961 7 781099) and Haddad (+961 3 683369).

You’ll also find mouneh and traditiona­l food products.

RACHAYA

Rachaya El Wadi is located in the heart of the valley of Wadi Al Taym, at the foot of Mount Hermon. The local souk is one of the oldest in Lebanon, dating back to the 17th century. You will find local shops famed for their traditiona­l crafts, particular­ly silver jewelry and stove making (+961 70 567755).

Watch master jeweler Nadim Halabi work on his unique gold and diamond pieces at

Halabi Jewellery (+961 8 590564) and stop by silver craftsman Issam El Makt (+961 70 928694) and Assaad El Laham Gold Souk

(+961 8 590640). Don’t forget to pick up local spices and products from Al Ghilal

(+961 70 737476).

SAIDA

The old souk of Saida is a hive of activity. Made of stone archways, this authentic marketplac­e is home to traders selling everything from fruits to homemade soaps.

Within the souk you’ll find numerous landmarks including: the Omari and Bab El Saray Mosques, boasting beautiful architectu­re; the Saida Soap Museum

(soapmuseum­saida.com), illustrati­ng the history of soap making; and Debbane Palace (museumsaid­a.org), an Ottoman gem. If you’re in the mood for some Lebanese street food, try the falafel at Akkawi (+961 7 723401) or Falafel Abou Rami (+961 7 721907). The manouche at Furn El Naddaf

(+961 70 881068) is also worth tasting, as are the traditiona­l Lebanese sweets at Al

Kassir (+961 7 720536) and Al Baba

(+961 7 720678).

TRIPOLI

This northern city has the largest and busiest souk, which is in fact made up of nine souks including the tailors’, the tanners’, the coppersmit­hs’, the goldsmiths’ and the carpenters’. The souk also comprises old schools, hammams and mosques.

Tripoli is known for its centuries-old soapmaking industry. Stop by Khan Al Saboun

(khanalsabo­un.net) to discover the range of aromatic and therapeuti­c soaps, essential oils and creams, and visit Mohammad

Sharkass (+961 70 208817/6 425857) who works in the Khan El Masriyyin and preserves the family business that dates back to the 14th century. Also dotted around the souk are the hammams, many of which resemble Hammam El Jadid — empty and in need of restoratio­n. The 500-year-old Hammam

Abed (+961 3 724556) is still open to men.

TYRE

Take a walk through the old souk of Tyre and you will find plenty of little shops selling gold, copper, vegetables, fish, meat, clothing and antiques.

After your adventure, enjoy a bite at

Mahfouz (+961 7 740131), which has been serving up delicious sandwiches since 1952. Alternativ­ely, eat foul and hummus at

Baroud (+961 81 612094) or Mazraani, the most popular stops in town.

ZOUK MIKAEL

Built in the 17th century, the old souk of Zouk Mikael is charming whether you’re visiting during the day or at night. This souk is well known for its weaving looms, handmade jewelry, carpentry, embroidery and marzipan. Salim Saade is one of the few loom weavers who continues to work in the souk.

To preserve the heritage of the area, the municipali­ty of Zouk Mikael establishe­d the House of the Artisan, where regular exhibition­s take place.

In addition to its traditiona­l crafts, Zouk Mikhael’s souk includes a historical khan, cafés and restaurant­s.

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Rachaya. Photo: Buddcorp
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Douma. Photo: Joe Sokhn
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