AugustMan (Malaysia)

HIGH-TECH COMPOSITE

Richard Mille debuts new sophistica­ted material composed of ceramic and metal

- WORDS BY KC YAP PHOTOS BY RICHARD MILLE

FOLLOWING YEARS OF painstakin­g research and developmen­t, Richard Mille launches the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograp­h GMT in grey cermet, an exclusive material in watchmakin­g that combines the lightness of titanium and the hardness of diamond.

The cermet owes its unique grey colour to the combinatio­n of a metallic zirconium matrix with high-performanc­e ceramic inserts. Its implementa­tion required a degree of rigour commensura­te with that needed to create the materials themselves. Heating and pressing together very different kinds of materials at a high temperatur­e without altering their respective qualities was a challenge.

It proved even more difficult to obtain a homogeneou­s whole, as nickel and cobalt, which are normally used in this family of hard materials, were excluded in order to adhere to REACH standards, which ensure safety in the production and use of chemicals in the European industry. The procedure to remove these undesirabl­e binders and only retain suitable materials took numerous years for Richard Mille, in partnershi­p with IMI Group, a specialist in micro-technology, to develop and perfect.

The technology pairs classic hot stamping with a series of powerful electrical current pulses to increase the sintering kinetics, a technique known as ‘flash sintering’. Its density of 4.1g/cm3 ‒ less than that of titanium ‒ and its hardness of 2,360 Vickers ‒ almost the same as diamond’s 2,400 Vickers ‒ make Cermet a judicious choice for use in bezels that are very exposed to scratches, while maintainin­g overall lightness. Cermet’s physical properties are widely recognised, hence its frequent use in ballistic protection, external aerospace fuselage components, and in the brakes of competitio­n vehicles.

The constructi­on of the automatic movement gives pride of place to titanium. Its functions notably include a GMT display that can be effortless­ly adjusted thanks to a push-piece at 9 o’clock, a 24-hour flyback chronograp­h, and an annual calendar. The added grey cermet is adapted to the pure aerodynami­c lines of the iconic case, which measures 50 x 42.7mm with a total thickness of 16.15mm.

The combinatio­n of a Carbon TPT case-band, a titanium case-back and a grey Cermet bezel helps to significan­tly reduce the weight of the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograp­h GMT, a limited edition of just 140 pieces.

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