Tatler Dining Malaysia

WHY GO

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Ying Ker Lou has long been the place to savour hearty and nourishing Hakka-style food, offering healthy fare such as their famous lei cha.

A cold and hot appetiser of drunken chicken Hakka-style and yam abacus are good openers. The drunken chicken is marinated generously with Chinese wine and represents the hot side while the yam abacus is outstandin­g for its rich flavours and starchy texture.

True Hakka-style cooking is demonstrat­ed with the braised pork belly, served with salted vegetables. A well-braised dish, it has no MSG, with the melt-in-your-mouth pork unquestion­ably sinful. Though it takes 30 minutes to prepare a plate of steamed fish head with black bean and soya bean sauce, it’s worth the wait as the fish tastes fresh and is well complement­ed by a thick serving of the black bean paste. Another dish rich in flavours is the sautéed eggplant with fish sauce, or add a dash of spiciness to proceeding­s with the Hakka soup with chicken.

For desserts, the mango pudding with milk does not disappoint, although health-conscious diners will do well with a hot dessert like a bowl of sweetened mashed yam with gingko nuts.

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