SOFTLY DOES IT
Vulnerability shines through a determined yet pensive outlook, evidenced by make-up that looks smudged, not perfect. Take the beautiful stained lips and damp Marcelwaved locks at Oscar de la Renta and blurred out lips at Marni, all of which evoke damsels in distress. “The collection is insanely beautiful,” says backstage beauty maestro Tom Pecheux of Marni.
While the runway designs were all rigorous cuts and architectural silhouettes, the look, matched with sumptuous furs and tactile fabrics, softened the edginess. Designer Consuelo Castiglioni describes it perfectly: “Austere but romantic.” Paul Hanlon, who created the wispy yet elegant hair, agrees: “It’s more masculine and d tailored, so I wanted the roots to look k straggly; as if she’d got caught outdoors.” Styling tip: Braid tresses underneath after applying mousse for that stiff, wet look to keep the shape flat and small.
Make-up powerhouse and industry trendsetter Pat McGrath was responsible for taking the drenched trend further down the face, by smudging mascara and dousing the lips. “When we were discussing the show with Mrs. Prada, we saw that the clothes were made from ultra luxurious fabric made to look worn, and we thought it’d be a great idea to do o the same to the face, too,” he explained. d. “It’s very sexy and refreshing.” Marni Autumn/ Winter ’13
At Dior, the avant-garde chignon slicked tight to the skin was unfaultable in every sense, completed with McGrath’s ingenious washed-out lips. She carefully wiped off the fuchsia from the edges of the mouth to blur out the lips slightly, bringing out a more nostalgic effect reminiscent of a bouquet of faded roses. The illusion was a hit and McGrath did the same for Miu Miu’s rubicund pouts, with an unexpected twist that used fingers only for the softer versions seen on Louis Vuitton’s femmes.
GOING RAW
But if all this talk seems too Victorian and morbid, then rejoice in the alternatives. Fashion’s favourite hair maestro Sam Matrix Design Pulse Hard Lock Extra Strong Hold Hairspray, RM38 McKnight did a hybrid version at Dsquared2: “It’s boyish from the front with a slick finish and strong parting, and then we tong the end of the ponytail for a girly bounce.” This might just work for those who like to stick a cap on. Gelled brows and dewy skin reigned supreme at Sportmax: “Fresh, glowing girls, like they’ve just run through the snow,” quips make-up expert Charlotte Tilbury, who also slicked the girls’ lids at Mugler with MAC Clear Lipglass.
As for the cool-girl factor, you can count on Glastonbury for inspiration. At Etro, Eugene Souleiman juxtaposed the colourful collection with boyish ’dos. “I call this look a faux hawk.” Likewise, Blumarine’s pastel fares were toughened up with James Pecis’s “romantic rock ’n’ roll” crops. Lucia Pieroni punked up the eyes of Roberto Cavalli’s girls: “I’m keeping skin fresh and neutral, with a touch of shine,” while also using MAC’s new Eye Gloss in Black Sea across the lids “for a glossy, oily look”.
Palau topped it all off with his favourites – spotted in the maestro’s kit were Redken Shine Flash 02 and Diamond Oil – and the models were ready to go.
Perfectionists can argue all they want, but fashion has spoken, and you are pardoned for taking a whole new approach with the wet look. Just drop the shower cap and endless hours in the salon. Even an unsteady hand for make-up application is forgiven. Oh, good times.