SOFTLY DOES IT

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Beauty -

Vul­ner­a­bil­ity shines through a de­ter­mined yet pen­sive out­look, ev­i­denced by make-up that looks smudged, not per­fect. Take the beau­ti­ful stained lips and damp Marcel­waved locks at Os­car de la Renta and blurred out lips at Marni, all of which evoke dam­sels in dis­tress. “The col­lec­tion is in­sanely beau­ti­ful,” says back­stage beauty mae­stro Tom Pecheux of Marni.

While the run­way de­signs were all rig­or­ous cuts and ar­chi­tec­tural sil­hou­ettes, the look, matched with sump­tu­ous furs and tac­tile fab­rics, soft­ened the edgi­ness. De­signer Con­suelo Castiglioni de­scribes it per­fectly: “Aus­tere but ro­man­tic.” Paul Han­lon, who cre­ated the wispy yet el­e­gant hair, agrees: “It’s more mas­cu­line and d tai­lored, so I wanted the roots to look k strag­gly; as if she’d got caught out­doors.” Styling tip: Braid tresses un­der­neath af­ter ap­ply­ing mousse for that stiff, wet look to keep the shape flat and small.

Make-up pow­er­house and in­dus­try trend­set­ter Pat McGrath was re­spon­si­ble for tak­ing the drenched trend fur­ther down the face, by smudg­ing mas­cara and dous­ing the lips. “When we were dis­cussing the show with Mrs. Prada, we saw that the clothes were made from ul­tra lux­u­ri­ous fab­ric made to look worn, and we thought it’d be a great idea to do o the same to the face, too,” he ex­plained. d. “It’s very sexy and re­fresh­ing.” Marni Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

At Dior, the avant-garde chignon slicked tight to the skin was un­fault­able in ev­ery sense, com­pleted with McGrath’s in­ge­nious washed-out lips. She care­fully wiped off the fuch­sia from the edges of the mouth to blur out the lips slightly, bring­ing out a more nos­tal­gic ef­fect rem­i­nis­cent of a bou­quet of faded roses. The il­lu­sion was a hit and McGrath did the same for Miu Miu’s ru­bi­cund pouts, with an un­ex­pected twist that used fin­gers only for the softer ver­sions seen on Louis Vuit­ton’s femmes.

GO­ING RAW

But if all this talk seems too Vic­to­rian and mor­bid, then re­joice in the al­ter­na­tives. Fash­ion’s favourite hair mae­stro Sam Ma­trix De­sign Pulse Hard Lock Ex­tra Strong Hold Hair­spray, RM38 McKnight did a hy­brid ver­sion at Dsquared2: “It’s boy­ish from the front with a slick fin­ish and strong part­ing, and then we tong the end of the pony­tail for a girly bounce.” This might just work for those who like to stick a cap on. Gelled brows and dewy skin reigned supreme at Sport­max: “Fresh, glow­ing girls, like they’ve just run through the snow,” quips make-up ex­pert Char­lotte Til­bury, who also slicked the girls’ lids at Mu­gler with MAC Clear Lip­glass.

As for the cool-girl fac­tor, you can count on Glas­ton­bury for in­spi­ra­tion. At Etro, Eugene Souleiman jux­ta­posed the colour­ful col­lec­tion with boy­ish ’dos. “I call this look a faux hawk.” Like­wise, Blumarine’s pas­tel fares were tough­ened up with James Pe­cis’s “ro­man­tic rock ’n’ roll” crops. Lu­cia Pieroni punked up the eyes of Roberto Cavalli’s girls: “I’m keep­ing skin fresh and neu­tral, with a touch of shine,” while also us­ing MAC’s new Eye Gloss in Black Sea across the lids “for a glossy, oily look”.

Palau topped it all off with his favourites – spot­ted in the mae­stro’s kit were Red­ken Shine Flash 02 and Di­a­mond Oil – and the mod­els were ready to go.

Per­fec­tion­ists can ar­gue all they want, but fash­ion has spo­ken, and you are par­doned for tak­ing a whole new ap­proach with the wet look. Just drop the shower cap and end­less hours in the salon. Even an un­steady hand for make-up ap­pli­ca­tion is for­given. Oh, good times.

Prada Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

Etro Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’13

Guerlain Tenue de Per­fec­tion Foun­da­tion, RM176

H

Shu Ue­mura Tokyo Lash Mas­cara, RM90

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