SPRING FLING Com­plex­ions like morn­ing dew, sen­su­ous pouts bloom­ing from claret to ruby ... Na­ture shows us a trick or two. By Li Ying Lim.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The Beauty Bazaar -

If any­one took the flo­ral beauty di­rec­tion se­ri­ously, it would have to be Er­dem. Trans­form­ing the Old Sel­fridges Ho­tel into a hot­house, birds were chirp­ing ev­ery­where and mag­nif­i­cent trop­i­cal greens with bright pops of flo­rals matched the dresses com­ing down the run­way. “She is this ob­ses­sive botanist – a bit de­mure, a bit Vic­to­rian – who spends most of her time in the con­ser­va­tory where she goes mad and wan­ders into the jun­gle,” says Er­dem’s lead make-up artist and doyenne Val Gar­land. “The look is ro­man­tic, beau­ti­fully or­ganic with a dewy com­plex­ion.”

“There is lit­tle more beau­ti­ful than nat­u­ral skin en­riched with clear shine,” agrees make-up artist Terry Bar­ber. Trans­par­ent skin – al­most crys­talline like sun­shine glint­ing on a drop of morn­ing dew – is the or­der of the sea­son. Veils of flower-in­spired hues and tex­tures – from gloss and gleam to pow­dery and vel­vety – per­fect this beauty di­rec­tion.

“There is a lot of trans­parency and airi­ness to the col­lec­tion – I wanted that to come through in the make-up,” says Fran­celle Daly of the look at 3.1 Phillip Lim. “My in­spi­ra­tion was sen­su­al­ity, the way the morn­ing light hits you as you wake up in your bed­room, with sen­sual skin beam­ing with rays of light.” Us­ing Nars Blush in Reck­less and Ju­bi­la­tion, both avail­able as part of the Spring re­lease, “I high­lighted the cheek bones, high planes of the face, and the bridge of the nose to ac­cen­tu­ate and bring out that glow in each girl.”


Head­bands of del­i­cate flow­ers at Valentino Spring/

Sum­mer ’15 Vi­brant shoots of colours culled from gar­dens are also preva­lent. Burberry Pror­sum slicked on death-by-roses lip shades (avail­able now) for the mod­els, along­side nails of blue, green, aza­lea, and hy­drangea pinks. At Guy Laroche, sim­i­lar to Derek Lam and Al­berta Fer­retti, eye­lids were washed out with beau­ti­ful flo­ral tones, and pain­terly strokes that evoked the soft­ness of pe­tals. “I was in­spired by words like mauve, laven­der, and vi­o­let,” says Pecheux of the vi­o­let haze seen at Derek Lam. “They were twisted, built on top of nudes.”

At Dolce & Gab­bana, red car­na­tions that hailed back to Si­cily’s Span­ish in­va­sion (among the glit­ter­ing bolero jack­ets and red baroque threads) com­pli­mented the two-toned pouts and ac­ces­sorised hair by dy­namic duo Pat McGrath and Guido Palau. “It’s fem­i­nine, soft, and pretty – how girls want to look,” says Palau, who pricked a fin­ger or two while adorn­ing the wispy buns with fresh red roses and car­na­tions.

From pretty and del­i­cate to eye-catch­ing and vi­brant, spring blooms con­tinue to cap­ti­vate with lus­cious shades and in­ten­sity. Best of all, you don’t even need a green thumb to make it work. “Cre­at­ing light in the com­plex­ion starts with se­lect­ing the ap­pro­pri­ate tone to brighten its un­der­tones,” ex­plains Bar­ber. “This could be any­thing from pure white through to a deep gold or pewter.” Tom Pecheux used “a mix­ture of lip­sticks, creams, and glosses to cre­ate the ‘sweaty skin’” seen on the girls at Marni. Coin­ci­den­tally, a flower mar­ket had been set up at the show venue to sit beau­ti­fully with the theme of the clothes, as well as the mod­els’ dewy com­plex­ions, rem­i­nis­cent of freshly wa­tered plants.

“Pressed into the high planes of the face with the balls of the hand, it gives a translu­cent, dewy fin­ish to the skin,” shares Gar­land of her se­cret weapon, MAC Mix­ing Medium Shine. And don’t for­get to arm your­self with a pearles­cent base. “Buffed into the cheek­bones with a brush, it can re­ally achieve lus­tre and a lit-from-within glow,” says back­stage beauty pro Lu­cia Pica.


Lace-adorned braids at Julien MacDon­ald Spring/

Sum­mer ’15

Flo­ral crowns at Bora Aksu Spring/ Sum­mer ’15

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