MES­SAGE IN A BOT­TLE

In­flu­enced by ev­ery­thing from Pi­casso to Klimt, Byzan­tium to An­cient Greece, the most be­guil­ing perfumes all have se­cret mean­ings. By Emma Zacharia.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The Beauty -

Sal­vador Dalí said that “of the five senses, smell is un­ques­tion­ably the one that best t gives the idea of im­mor­tal­ity.” In his s char­ac­ter­is­ti­cally oblique way, the painterr was on to some­thing; fragrance cann con­jure moods, feel­ings, and mem­o­ries s more quickly than most me­dia. It cann be per­sonal, pre­cious, and, im­por­tantly, ephemeral – all rea­sons why for cen­turies scent has been n as­so­ci­ated with fine art, po­etry, and leg­end. Though the ide­all of beauty (achieved through har­mony, pro­por­tion, and truth) has been pur­sued by artists since the time of the An­cientt Greeks, its prop­er­ties are val­ued equally by per­fumers. Golden vials in­spired by Clas­si­cal art and ar­chi­tec­ture e re­main as rel­e­vant to­day as they did to the An­cient Egyp­tians, whose in­cense-based mix­tures in­au­gu­rated the scented cul­ture of se­duc­tion.

Take, for in­stance, Yves Saint Lau­rent’s aro­matic cologne, Kouros, cre­ated in 1981 by the per­fumer Pierre Bour­don. Blend­ing dry co­rian­der, sage, and ve­tiver with sweet patchouli, berg­amot, and honey, it takes its name and in­spi­ra­tion from the an­cient G Greek kouroi, the free­stand­ing free­stand­ing, mus­cled male nude sculp sculp­tures of­ten found Van Cleef & Ar­pels Rêve En­chanté EDP, RM399 (100ml)

YPablo Pi­casso Guer­lain La Pe­tite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche, RM301 (50ml) & RM444 (100ml) n near tem­ples ded­i­cated to Apollo. Re­mark­ing on a trip to Greece he made be­fore the fragrance’s in­cep­tion, Saint L Lau­rent said: “I was fas­ci­nated by the bl blue of the sea, the sky, and its in­tense fresh­ness ... At the same time, I dreamed of the stat­ues of young men with all the splen­dour of the an­cient Greeks. I had my new per­fume, and its name.”

Dolce & Gab­bana’s lat­est of­fer­ing, the One Col­lec­tor’s edi­tion, also draws on an­tique artistry: the glit­ter­ing bur­nished gold mo­saics and coins of Domenico Dolce’s na­tive Si­cily. The op­u­lent Byzan­tine dec­o­ra­tion found in­side the is­land’s Nor­man-Moor­ish cathe­drals at Mon­reale, Ce­falù, and the Cap­pella Palatina in Palermo have al­ready been ref­er­enced in Dolce & Gab­bana’s fash­ion col­lec­tions (fluted Corinthian col­umns in minia­ture sup­port­ing pre­car­i­ous stilet­tos; crum­bling ru­ins printed across struc­tured tu­nics), and the One Col­lec­tor’s Edi­tion in­vokes them through scent. Each bot­tle is crowned by a golden Si­cil­ian coin, em­bossed with Clas­si­cal gods and god­desses promis­ing to be­stow wis­dom, courage, and in­tel­li­gence upon the wearer with ev­ery airy spritz.

Mean­while, Estée Lauder’s Mod­ern Muse is in­spired by an­cient mythol­ogy. A woody, flo­ral mix of honey­suckle, am­ber wood, and dewy pe­tals, it cel­e­brates the nine muses, the per­son­i­fi­ca­tion of science and the arts, rep­re­sented

Many fra­grances ref­er­ence the rich world of art Estée Lauder Mod­ern Muse Chic, RM307 (50ml) & RM445 (100ml)

Fac­tory,

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