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“W hat is important to me nowadays is to be able to translate the heritage and craftsmans­hip of Salvatore Ferragamo into a modern language.”

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it’s interestin­g to work on the concept of Italianity. This is something I really want to stress because I feel, being a part of the family business, it is about the integrity of the product. For us, it’s not about numbers, it’s about quality – keeping the tradition, principle, and the DNA of Salvatore Ferragamo. That, to me, is the most important project.”

Salvatore Ferragamo and consequent­ly, Giornetti’s preference to focus on the rich heritage of the house instead of seasonal trends explains how the company reported a six percent increase in its revenue to 1.3 billion Euros at the start of the year. It also explains why Giornetti harkened back to the ’ 30s while the Autumn/Winter ’ 15 runwa runways of Milan Fashion Week were awash with ’80s influences.

““I started from the ’30s because it’s an extremely interestin­g moment for literature, mus music, and art. It was also the time that Salvatore Ferragamo started his career in Los An Angeles,” says Giornetti about the inspiratio­ns behind the collection.

It’s rare for a designer to explain his designs in such clear yet evocative terms. His mention of the Russian artists immediatel­y calls to mind the almost abstract Bauhaus geometry that adorns the collection, balanced with big, perfectly round buttons that r run as a leitmotif throughout the collection. “Patchwork” is also the perfect descriptio­n of the plush overcoat skilfully constructe­d with strips of multi-coloured mink, which also finds its form in tabards: “The patchwork is really one of the icons of the Ferragamo world; the love of mixing different materials together. It’s really a part of the language that Salvatore developed during his life and his career.”

Overall, it’s a winning collection that presents familiar elements with subtle twists. As Giornetti readily admits: “Even as a student, I was not the kind who was i into astonishin­g people with crazy stuff. I was much more focused on constructi­on an and the details.” And these are precisely what wins you over. From the horizontal knit pon ponchos that bounce joyously with every step, to the tweed and leather skirts spliced wit hE with light-as-a-dream chiffon inserts, you can immediatel­y appreciate the cleverness.

Even more fascinatin­g is the way this collection has taken on a more romantic, softer feel w within the confines of the Japanese temple. Concrete walls have given way to ancient wood wooden beams, urbanely dressed Milanese fashion folk to grey suited Japanese business men a and extravagan­t kimonos. Giornetti himself took his bow in a kimono.

Yet Yet, despite being far removed from its original settings, the showing of the collection felt tho thoroughly at home, illustrati­ng just who Salvatore Ferragamo designs for: The metropo metropolit­an woman with an unwavering sense of identity and style. Even the seamless

presentati­on of the brand's Pre-Spring collection An exhibition at Nijo Castle alongside Autumn’s showed a fluid design narrative.

“What is important to me nowadays is to be able to translate the heritage and craftsmans­hip of Salvatore Ferragamo into a modern language. It’s no more about a gender or a demographi­c target. I don’t believe in that,” says Giornetti. “At Ferragamo, it is about the integrity of the product and the principle of Italianity. It’s the fact that at Ferragamo, we still do things with passion. And that is an extremely important message for me.” Massimilia­no Giornetti in a kimono for the fashion presentati­on

 ??  ?? Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/ Winter ’15
Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/ Winter ’15
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 ??  ?? Salvatore Ferragamo
Autumn/ Winter ’15
Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/ Winter ’15
 ??  ?? Seiryu- den Temple perched on Mount Higashiyam­a
Seiryu- den Temple perched on Mount Higashiyam­a
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