HIGH CONTRAST The epitomes of class and sophistication get an edgy makeover this season. By Li Ying Lim.
el Autumn/ Winter
At Brasserie Gabrielle à la Chanel Autumn/Winter ’15 in Grand Palais, it was quite evident that the ladies who brunch no longer come in the most obvious manner. Read: showy, ubiquitous chignons and cliché classic make-up. Instead, individuality was the order of the day. Hairstylist Sam McKnight made the fresh and modern garçon haircut of waiters’ an inspiration, and though it was hardly nightcap hour, season make-up maestro Tom Pecheux had no qualms making up the girls with seductive nocturnal smokey eyes. Helmet-slick crops, headband-swept fringe or wispy hair pinned back with a double C interlocker – the looks varied amongst the girls who were laughing and chatting over croissants and coffee in the Café Society-era inspired establishment.
Even Guido Palau was mesmerised by the power of the updo. He pinned sparkling barrettes to the side of the models’ hair at Prada, saying, “To pull your hair up in that direction exposes you, but gives you a strength as well.”
Over at Céline, sophistication was also having a little song and dance with youthful quirks. Shiseido’s Dick Page says of the looks, “The look at Céline was based on beautiful, natural-looking skin. Most girls had quite bare faces. Some girls had boldly painted blue eyes, some had precise flat red lips, and a couple of girls had both. The look is really about individual style, so I did all the painted blue eyes myself. No powder or mascara was used. Guido and I talked to Phoebe [Philo] about eccentricity in general and PJ Harvey in particular.” Tip: The blue used was Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Esmaralda and the lip was Make Up For Ever Flash Color Pot in Red. MSG ’15
Dries Van Noten Autumn/ Winter ’15