HIGH CON­TRAST The epit­o­mes of class and so­phis­ti­ca­tion get an edgy makeover this sea­son. By Li Ying Lim.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - THE BEAUTY -

Chan ’15

el Au­tumn/ Win­ter

At Brasserie Gabrielle à la Chanel Au­tumn/Win­ter ’15 in Grand Palais, it was quite ev­i­dent that the ladies who brunch no longer come in the most ob­vi­ous man­ner. Read: showy, ubiq­ui­tous chignons and cliché clas­sic make-up. In­stead, in­di­vid­u­al­ity was the or­der of the day. Hair­styl­ist Sam McKnight made the fresh and mod­ern garçon hair­cut of wait­ers’ an in­spi­ra­tion, and though it was hardly night­cap hour, sea­son make-up mae­stro Tom Pecheux had no qualms mak­ing up the girls with se­duc­tive noc­tur­nal smokey eyes. Hel­met-slick crops, head­band-swept fringe or wispy hair pinned back with a dou­ble C in­ter­locker – the looks var­ied amongst the girls who were laugh­ing and chat­ting over crois­sants and cof­fee in the Café So­ci­ety-era inspired es­tab­lish­ment.

Even Guido Palau was mes­merised by the power of the updo. He pinned sparkling bar­rettes to the side of the mod­els’ hair at Prada, say­ing, “To pull your hair up in that di­rec­tion ex­poses you, but gives you a strength as well.”

Over at Cé­line, so­phis­ti­ca­tion was also hav­ing a lit­tle song and dance with youth­ful quirks. Shi­seido’s Dick Page says of the looks, “The look at Cé­line was based on beau­ti­ful, nat­u­ral-look­ing skin. Most girls had quite bare faces. Some girls had boldly painted blue eyes, some had pre­cise flat red lips, and a cou­ple of girls had both. The look is re­ally about in­di­vid­ual style, so I did all the painted blue eyes my­self. No pow­der or mas­cara was used. Guido and I talked to Phoebe [Philo] about ec­cen­tric­ity in gen­eral and PJ Har­vey in par­tic­u­lar.” Tip: The blue used was Shi­seido Shim­mer­ing Cream Eye Color in Es­mar­alda and the lip was Make Up For Ever Flash Color Pot in Red. MSG ’15

M Au­tumn/Win­ter

Dries Van Noten Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

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