WHO RUN THE WORLD Phoebe Philo rein­vents the Cé­line woman with a bold play on sil­hou­ettes. By Sharmita Summugam.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The News -

Cé­line Sum­mer ’16 Small Trotteur Shoul­der Bag in Or­ange and White Printed Wa­ter­snake, Cé­line

Phoebe Philo has al­ways taken Cé­line to new heights, build­ing on the brand’s con­tem­po­rary phi­los­o­phy. There was no one theme to de­fine the en­tire Sum­mer ’16 col­lec­tion; it was a breath of fresh air, with looks for the It Girl about town, the mogul, the ad­ven­turer, and the all-round woman. It was a col­lec­tion that per­fectly un­der­stood the re­la­tion­ship be­tween a woman and her clothes. Each look was im­bued with the spirit of a chic wan­derer in both de­sign and aes­thetic; from bold puff sleeves to tapered loose trousers, leather and lace slips, util­i­tar­ian boots, A-lined coats with tight elas­tic waist­lines, and dresses that graced the run­way in awk­ward but ab­so­lutely chic lengths. This was a com­plete con­trast to the back­drop of the run­way show. Philo en­listed Dan­ish artist, Thomas Poulsen, bet­ter known as FOS, to cre­ate the space. Poulsen is no stranger to Cé­line and its aes­thet­ics, for he was the in­ge­nious cre­ative mind be­hind the newly re­vamped Cé­line flag­ship bou­tique in Lon­don. He is known to cre­ate so­cially en­gag­ing en­vi­ron­ments, like he did with the Cé­line store, as well as the float­ing bar he cre­ated for the Dan­ish Pav­il­ion at the 2011 Venice Bi­en­nale. This time round, Poulsen and Philo cre­ated a unique space – sheets in shades of blue, or­ange, and yel­low hung from rig­gings all around and in be­tween the space, rem­i­nis­cent of a mu­sic fes­ti­val. Paired with the stand­out beats con­ceived by both vi­sion­ar­ies, the scene was set.

Mod­els strode down the run­way in tight Sade-es­que braids and hot red lips that evoked the strong Cé­line woman, in a col­lec­tion with ’80s-in­flu­enced el­e­ments, neck­lines from the Vic­to­rian era, hand-sewn leather shoes, tar­tan pat­terns in­spired by the Scots, and boots with gold riv­ets and chains that could work as brooches.

On the leather goods front, Cé­line icons such as the Lug­gage, Trapeze, and Medium Clas­sic were re­vamped. The stars of the show, in my opin­ion, were two bags – the Pil­low bag, a rec­tan­gu­lar lamb­skin leather bag that is as com­fort­able as the name sug­gests, is sure to be a hit with the fash­ion­able jet-set­ters; and the Holdall, also known as the origami bag, has de­tach­able leather flaps that sur­round the bot­tom half of the tote.

It was a very dif­fer­ent spec­ta­cle from last sea­son; Philo placed an em­pha­sis on sil­hou­ettes in this mono­chrome col­lec­tion, with the oc­ca­sional earthy tones and ac­cents of red, paving the way for the ul­ti­mate Cé­line woman who is not afraid to be bold in her choices of self-ex­pres­sion.

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The Cé­line show space by Dan­ish artist FOS and

Phoebe Philo

2 1. Tight braids

at Cé­line Sum­mer ’16 2. The new Cé­line Holdall shoul­der bag

3. Cé­line Pil­low bag

4. Elas­tic waist­band coat

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