The trans­for­ma­tion of the in­dus­try in this dig­i­tal age. By Alexan­der Fury.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Fashion Feature -

It’s a cliché to say that fash­ion is shift­ing—fash­ion al­ways shifts. It is, by its very na­ture, mal­leable and mu­ta­ble, each sea­son trans­form­ing it­self into some­thing new. It is an in­dus­try pred­i­cated on a per­pet­ual dy­namic of change, of con­stant re­newal, of fresh blood. These changes can be in­vig­o­rat­ing. Re­ally great fash­ion can shift not just the what but the why, al­ter­ing not only the phys­i­cal form of clothes but the psy­cho­log­i­cal ram­i­fi­ca­tions of wear­ing them. Fash­ion can shift per­cep­tions of the self. But at the mo­ment fash­ion seems to be pre­oc­cu­pied with its shift­ing per­cep­tions of it­self. The cur­rent land­scape is in peril. Longheld “rules” are be­ing ques­tioned, rewrit­ten, or scrapped en­tirely. The bian­nual fash­ion cal­en­dar has been tossed out, with de­sign­ers show­ing their clothes between sea­sons, on men and women si­mul­ta­ne­ously, and in weeks tra­di­tion­ally re­served for one or the other. De­sign­ers are sell­ing their wares straight off the run­way—“see now, buy now,” in the in­dus­try par­lance—or hoard­ing im­agery al­to­gether un­til their clothes hit the rack. Houses are stag­ing shows in more in­ti­mate set­tings, like pri­vate garages (Ralph Lau­ren) or their own ate­liers (Mai­son Margiela), while oth­ers thirstily live stream ev­ery stitch. Alexan­der Wang staged his show on the streets of New York last Au­tumn/Win­ter ’17, to the de­light of pass­ing tourists. The rules are, there are no rules, as Aris­to­tle Onas­sis once said.

The signs have been there for years—the dom­i­nance of so­cial plat­forms, the ever-grow­ing num­ber of col­lec­tions, the as­cen­dance of the consumer as ar­biter of con­tem­po­rary taste, and the gen­eral need for speed. But the reper­cus­sions of these grad­ual changes in the fash­ion cli­mate are only be­ing felt now, and with seis­mic force.

Rick Owens’s stat­uesque col­lec­tion for Spring/Sum­mer ’18

Punk and grunge made a come­back at Prada Spring/ Sum­mer ’18 Alessan­dro Michele’s glam­our on acid Rick Owens Spring/Sum­mer ’18

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