The Spice Journey
Explore the historic Spice Route on a fabled phinisi
FORT GAMALAMA
We began our voyage at Ternate, the largest city in North Maluku, situated at the foot of the still active Gamalama volcano. Named Ombak Putih, this phinisi stole our hearts as soon as we set foot on board. Her crew had the most genuine smiles; the happy, singing kitchen staff concocted exquisite, healthy Indonesian dishes throughout the 12-day sail. Hosting just 14 guests, the ship had an equal number of crew members who made certain of our wellbeing. The attraction to this SeaTrek cruise instead of its other equally engaging routes is to know more about the Spice Trade. Ternate and the nearby island of Tidore were the early spice sultanates and had long been competitors in commerce. The Spanish had already reached Tidore ahead of the arrival of the Portuguese, prompting the latecomers to rush into construction of Fort Gamalama, barely a mile away on neighbouring Ternate.
Ternate and Tidore were the source of cloves, and Banda, the origin of mace and nutmeg. Nutmeg was used as a preservative, aphrodisiac, and reputed cure for the bubonic plague, making it the source of fabulous profits in the market at each stage of its long journey to Europe. Rich prizes were contested between the European superpowers, and the legacy of these commercial wars are still evident today. Being on this intricate spice route meant we were guided on every stop by a specialist. Our onboard expert, Jeffrey Mellefont, shared his adventures in sailing through the archipelago by yacht with the traditional seafarers of Indonesia decades back. Although in a much more luxurious setting of the Ombak Putih, Mellefont set the scene for us to experience the historical spice trade journey.
FORT DUURSTEDE
After a few days’ worth of sailing through the Molucca Sea, we found ourselves anchored at the pristine white beach with no other tourists in sight at Saparua Island, which lies in the shadow of Fort Duurstede, built to protect the spice trade. We were left right at the entrance of an antiquated building housing a local history museum, its scenic balcony facing the blue ocean of gentle winds. Here, we learned that the production of cloves was restricted to the vicinity of Ambon, and stringently controlled in order to maintain the monopoly of the Dutch East India Company. In 1817, Saparua hit the headlines when local hero Pattimura led a rebellion against the Dutch, successfully capturing and holding the fort for several months. Walking across the huge lawn into the gates of Fort Duurstede, a cooling effect took over, even on a scorching day—a welcome respite from the sticky humidity of the afternoon sun.
Inside, the walls of the fort which were once under covers are now weathered down, while the 18thcentury rustic cannons remain intact, decorating the exterior of the fort with an eerie feel.
FORT BEVERWIJK
Our sail continued to the tiny island of Nusa Laut, located just at the south of Saparua to another spectacular anchorage, this time at the foot of the seemingly impregnable Fort Beverwijk. Walking to this fort from the beach, we were joined by laughing children; keen to know of the world we come from, so foreign to this place left untouched. We savoured papeda, the most famous and unusual of the many sago dishes in this region, all while facing the astounding battlement views stretching from immaculate seashore to the rugged mountain tops of distant Seram. Getting back to our beautiful phinisi, we were welcomed with cold refreshments, perfect in the evening swelter. Some of us chose to lounge on sun beds, while others gleefully swam and enjoyed the kayaks and paddle boards the cruise came equipped with.
GUNUNG API VOLCANO
There is a reason behind the name Seram Sea. Meaning “scary”, the sea provided our little phinisi with the theatrics of violent waves and rough winds, travelling across it. Ginger tea became the chosen libation to settle the stomach for all on board. The Ombak Putih anchored the foot of Gunung Api volcano, one of the most active in the area. Across a narrow strait lay the island of Neira, and beyond that the mountainous arc of Lontar, forming the rim of a vast sunken caldera. This pristine, gem of a location is worth journeying a thousand rough seas. It’s a place to soak in the surrounding greenery, clear blue sky, and glistening waters, and take in the sounds of nature either from a short climb up the village hill, or on the phinisi itself.
BANDA NEIRA
Banda Neira is the only significant settlement in the archipelago. Once the administrative centre of the mighty VOC, it is now a quiet backwater, long lapsed into genteel decay. Evidence of its former glory abounds—the majestic Fort Belgica on the hilltop, the elegant Dutch Reformed Church with its collection of old tombstones, the charming arches of Hotel Maulana, the rusting remnants of Fort Nassua, and the eerie former residence of the Dutch controleur. The first and last dinner we had on land while on this journey was at the Cilu Bintang Estate. With the nutmeg as its logo, this hotel of colonial Dutch architecture is surrounded by green landscape. Accompanying our delectable fresh fish and leafy Indonesian meal were the sounds of insects and singing birds. This reminded me of British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace as we had been visiting the areas where he conceived the theory of evolution by natural selection, published jointly with Charles Darwin in 1858. Getting back on the phinisi where a library of books was provided, I grabbed myself Wallace’s The Malay Archipelago detailing about his travels, which in turn was a great way to end mine with. www.seatrekbali.com