DESIGNER MOOD BOARD: NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE

The Louis Vuitton creative director set the time machine to the late 1800s by encapsulating the Belle Époque for Spring/Summer ’20. By Jacyln Tang.

Nicolas Ghesquière continued his journey through time to a definitive era of French history, the culturally rich period between the culminations of the 19th century up until the First World War. “We wanted to explore the notions about what’s outdated and old-fashioned, and nostalgia for a time we can only dream about, and how to make it relevant for today. As it was a time of excitement and massive change, it also welcomed a new era of travel to the elite,” explained Ghesquière on the inspiration behind this season’s collection. The silhouettes were strongly reminiscent of romanticism and a nod to Art Nouveau, with protopsychedelic swirls of a green jacquard coat, billowing mutton-sleeve blouses, bibbed dresses, and a fabric badge in the shape of a Cattleya orchid, pinned to the lapels of several looks. On the accessories front, enter the classics and three entirely new models—a black Dauphine Mini with floral motifs, a revamped Vanity Monogram bag, the new Video Cassette clutch in trompe-l’oeil design, and a sophisticated chic Blade bag, to name a few. In an interview prior to the show, Ghesquière mentioned in regards to how today’s world is able to create anxiety; a fear of what’s going to happen and the desire to make things less new. “We don’t always have to be afraid of retro,” he expressed, evident on the ’70s references along with his own archive pieces in the collection. At a time of economical and socio-political uncertainties, fantasies are often considered a joyous respite. Yet Ghesquière managed to enact a peculiar sense of hope through his work. As he said of his collection, “We grow from what we learn.” And grow, this world will.

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