THE DAYDREAMER
The season’s most covetable makeup colours were inspired by an artistic expedition to the Namibian desert.
I n this modern world we’re so focused on efficiency and output, there’s not a lot of room left to fantasise anymore. Perhaps that’s why Lucia Pica’s dreamy new Spring/Summer ’20 make-up collection for Chanel, Desert Dream, resonates. In a society with so much noise, she is drawing us into a quieter space where there is room to be playful and introspective.
The idea for Pica’s latest collection started with the story of a woman crossing the Moroccan desert. “I was so inspired by her journey that I decided to embark on one of my own in Namibia,” Pica says. The global creative make-up and colour designer at Chanel is a confessed romantic, meaning where others may see dust and desolation, she sees a place of otherworldly contrast, immensity, and colour. “I always get lost in my daydreams,” she admits. “And I tend to escape to nature when I’m feeling stressed.”
Of course, like most adventures, this one took an unexpected turn. “I went there with the idea that it would be all about the famous orange dunes and lunar plains,” she recalls, “but what caught my eye was the in-between colours of the quartz, basalt and shale, and the way they changed in the light bouncing around all that vastness.” coming The word back Pica to about keeps
her travels and the resulting collection of
soft, muted shades is
“unfiltered”. “I wanted to create a palette that
exemplified the deep sense of calm I felt in the desert,” she says. “That is very relevant today. We need that sense of stillness more than ever.”
We also need a sense of ease, which is a huge focus for Pica when she works on formulations and shades. For nailing a lit-from-within complexion, Éclat du Désert is a satiny pink highlighter inspired by the hunks of rose quartz Pica spied in Namibia. “I use it on my cheekbones, temples, and eyelids,” she says. “You can create a halo around your eyes by simply dusting it on.”
And then there’s Baume Essentiel in Golden Light, a new take on Pica’s category-disrupting transparent hydrating stick that imparts a satisfying hit of radiance without a hint of sparkle. “It’s one of my favourite products,” she admits. “It’s perfect for when you want a little light around the cheekbones and nose.” Needless to say, it’s an instant staple, alongside Éclat du Désert.
Another formula innovation quietly making waves is Pica’s Ombre Prémiere Laque, a range of metallic liquid shadows in shades ranging from soft apricot to burnt mauve. “I wanted to capture the contrast of the dusty, blurry desert punctuated by the blinding light and jewel-toned accents,” she says. The point, notes Pica, is you really can’t go wrong with these creamy metals. “You can just keep blending it alone or with other shadows in Les 4 Ombres until you get what you want,” she shares.
“Ultimately, I see so many women who are afraid of playing with make-up,” she says. “But these feminine shades are so flattering and easy to apply that it really is a chance to have fun.” Challenge accepted.