Quaint and colourful nabe once populated by ladies of the night, now popular des res for flush, hip types. Having called ahead for an appointment, get your taxi to drop you at the blue-hued Katong Antique House / 208 East Coast Rd / 6345 8544 / for a crash course in trad customs and lifestyle of the Straits-chinese/malay elite through clothing, artefacts and furny. Culture itch scratched, now let’s get shopping. First, scoot left to #164 where the mod converted shophouse House of Egg3 / 6345 5200 / is tricked out with stylish decor. Cross the road to the cnr of East Coast Rd and Joo Chiat Rd to snap up gaudy beaded slippers and bright sarongs at #113 Rumah Bebe / 6247 8781 / and gass with artist owner Bebe Seet about all things Nyonya. Trace back to Joo Chiat Rd and saunter down to #448 Cat Socrates to browse Nippon-tinged curiosities and stroke Lychee the cat. Jump in a cab to 331 Joo Chiat Rd where you’ll espy striking jade rocks at Choo Yilin / 6348 1017 / chooyilin.com / then, turn right into Joo Chiat Terrace for Hat of Cain / #18 / 8809 6242 / hatofcain.com / a paean to the Panama (m/w). Leathery J. Myers beckons at #12 (see Advanced Shopping; by appt only). Skip right into Tembeling Rd and sashay up to Hiew at #136 / 9816 0957 / hiew.com.sg / a florist with a nice side line in Peranakan ceramics and directional kebayas. Stroll, or if you’re on that third shirt already, cab it back to East Coast Rd and stop for a sweet sensation at Awfully Chocolate / #131 / 6345 2190 / awfullychocolate.com / though chances are your mouth’s as dry as Skippy’s bum – if so, call in for a pint at #49 Rabbit Carrot Gun / 6348 8568 / rabbit-carrot-gun.com / or go for nostalgic Brit fare and craft brews at fauxpub The Trenchard Arms / #47 / 6344 0912. Bottoms up!