Sao Nam

WHY GO

Sao Nam is not glamorous but has enough Cold War-meetsIndochina chic to give the place a real identity. The crowd here is appropriately cosmopolitan, with a large number of expatriates favouring the place.

TATLER TIPS

It works in everyone’s interests that the menu doesn’t change much. Then again, there are so many interesting items, you are likely to over-order.

• The best of these is the legendary mangosteen salad, which is seasonal, so be sure to time your visit if you are after a fix.

• Diners who want meat, with a minimum of extras, should go for the duck in tamarind sauce. It’s a Southeast Asian version of the French classic with orange sauce but with more bite and a lot of hidden ingredients that turn it into a winning medley of tastes.