Zipangu

WHY GO

The décor is a definite draw, as is the service, which dispenses with obsequiousness and ersatz Japanese outfits. The experience is seamless, with or without kimonos.

TATLER TIPS

The menu has everything from time-honoured essentials to the avant-garde.

• The harusame salad is everything a salad should aspire to. Packed with flavour, it combines tartness with tastes reminiscent of a Thai dish, and comes with fresh fat shrimps.

• The signature cod with herbs is steamed before basking in a light vinegar herb sauce, and yet the richness of the dish makes it a meal in itself.

• Assisted by exquisite presentation and precision cutting, three types of fish—the budget sashimi version—can feed a discerning multitude.