Zuan Yuan

WHY GO

Cantonese specialties that reflect time-honoured traditions take centrestage at Zuan Yuan, with decor reminiscent of Oriental splendor.

WHAT TO ORDER

The signature double-boiled black chicken soup is given an extra dimension with the inclusion of abalone while the deep-fried baby duck is also teamed up with abalone, in the form of a sauce. Although at first sight it looks like nothing more than a small duck, it turns out to be exceptionally tender. The abalone sauce provides a rich accompaniment.

There is a pioneering approach to a non-traditional ingredient such as cod, making it even less traditional by adding apples to a tomato-based sauce.

You can tell that the chefs are having fun with new flavours, and the champion is durian. There is one dessert that combines three approaches to durian in what should become an acclimatisation course for those who think they hate durian. The durian spring roll, pancake and ice-cream make for a holy trinity of taste.