Philly Pedigree
Tory Burch explores its Philadelphian roots in a fall/winter collection tinted with powerful themes of nostalgia in modern times
It was the peak of summer when I first set eyes on the Tory Burch fall/winter 2017 range. Ironic, I know—here I was in Hong Kong at a showcase embedded with vintage nuances of Philadelphia. It dawned on me that the setting amplified contrasts—similar to the values of this latest collection. Bold and ripe colours filled the The Fringe Club, where the showcase was held. The tour started with rows of elegant blouses and exaggerated bow tops—a returning trend this season—paired with straight-cut menswearinspired trousers. Winter white was a recurring canvas for prints and patterns, from old-school checks and plaids inspired by Tory’s father, Teddy, to age-old, chintz-style florals, and an Edgar Degas ballerina pattern, exhibited at The Barnes Foundation, Philadelphia. The muse of the season is the vivacious and glamorous Tracy Lord played by Katharine Hepburn in The Philadephia Story. Through her, Tory expanded on utilitarian and old-school whimsy, upgrading classics with a twist. Jackets and coats were a variety of wool, shearling and fur upon twill toppers, military cuts and sporty bombers. All-white numbers were accented with gold buttons and a gold embroidered ‘TB’, paired with trousers or calf-skimming A-line skirts and shirts with high collars. An adventurous spirit takes over with pops of camel, gold, rust, green and bold blue. The versatility of plaid shone in onepiece suits, jackets, knits and dresses, in wool, fur and silk fabrics. The collection has a sensual streak
The season’s muse was Katharine Hepburn’s vivacious character in The Philadelphia Story
too, in the form of long sleeved slinky shirts and fluid dresses, plus adopts an unmistakable baroque charm through gold floral brocades and pearlised shell buttons. Contrasted upon black fabrics, these lineups make for avantgarde eveningwear. As homage to Tory’s pedigreed upbringing, the collection delved into vintage, schoolgirl quintessence. Pinafore cuts and sporty outerwear, Fair-isle sweaters and cardigans hit it off with corduroy pants and skirts. And it wouldn’t be Tory Burch without her favourite lupin blue floral patterns, either. Accessories were a riot of matchy-matchy bags-to-dresses combos. An Ithaka poem decorated a soft men’s leather briefcase, and there’s a necklace pendant, inspired by her father’s cigarette lighter. Menswear appeal translated upon shoes with loafer-like fringe and brogue detailing. Swimming against the current of the streetwear obsession, Tory Burch has yet again, established the relevance of heritage from a progressive perspective.