The Mathematics of Beauty
Celebrating its 50th jubilee this year, the Golden Ellipse by Patek Philippe proves that refinement has a formula, writes Samantha Lim
We look at the evolution of the Golden Ellipse by Patek Philippe in anticipation of its Golden Jubilee
Taste, no matter how subjective, has always leaned in favour of one trait: symmetry. Whether pertaining to a person’s facial features, the contours of a building, or even in the sphere of culinary arts (@symmetrybreakfast’s 790K followers on Instagram is proof enough), matching halves inexplicably appeal to our human nature. Psychologists surmise that we associate symmetry with order—a comfort in this perplexing world. Deemed the divine proportion, the golden ratio (approx 0.618 to 1.000) takes symmetry a step further by scrutinising recurring even distributions. Respected artists, the likes of Swiss architect Le Corbusier to Spanish painter Salvador Dalí, revered the formula and used it as a launching pad for their projects. Learning from the greats, Patek Philippe did likewise in 1968 with the release of the first Ellipse d’or. Neither oval nor rectangular, the Golden Ellipse pays heed to the perfect proportions spelled out by the golden section.
Steeped in history and suffused with mystery, the Calatrava Cross has long been Patek Philippe’s official insignia...
50TH JUBILEE EDITIONS
Surfacing once a year on average, between 1968 to 2008, new models of the Golden Ellipse abruptly dipped out of the market for a full decade—a lull that only heightened our anticipation for a 50th anniversary edition. Never one to disappoint its fans, Patek Philippe’s deliverance was twofold. Priced upwards of RM100,000, each of the 50th anniversary Golden Ellipses beckons to a different fan base:
40 GOING ON 50
Resplendent in rose gold, the Ref. 5738R001 takes cues from Patek Philippe’s 40th anniversary Golden Ellipse. Like its platinum predecessor, the jumbo-sized timepiece has cheveu hands (measuring a hair’s breadth), the same dimensions (34 x 39.5 mm), an ultra-thin frame (5.9 mm), a sunburst dial and handstitched shiny alligator strap (albeit in ebony black), the same movement (PP Calibre 240), and matching accessories (cuff links). Black onyx, an oxide mineral believed to ward off the evil eye, is set in the crown of this dress watch destined for the dashing, debonair gentlemen.
ARTISAN’S CANVAS
Steeped in history and suffused with mystery, the Calatrava Cross has long been Patek Philippe’s official insignia for as far back as collectors can remember. While we know that the trademark paperwork was signed on April 27, 1887, little is known as to why Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe took such a shining to the cruciform symbol, originally linked with the Spanish Order of Calatrava. Serving as the centrepiece of the Ref. 5738/50P-001, the calatrava symbol and its surrounding ornamentation required 30 hours of exquisite engraving and enamelling by a team of specialists. No expense was spared for this anniversary edition of the Ellipse d’or, which exists in 100 pieces—no more, no less. Acute observers might notice the watch’s similarity to the 5088/100P Calatrava, for both contrast an 18K white-gold plate with a black enamel primer as the background. Gorgeous for gifting, the watch is presented in a box that also contains luxurious cuff links; volutes and a Calatrava cross are framed by white-gold moulded into one of the world’s most aesthetically pleasing shapes, the elliptical.