AUTHENTIC NYONYA KEBAYA

An expert shares what makes an exceptional blouse 2.

The sarong kebaya commonly worn by Peranakans today bears a stylistic style that mostly resembles the attire worn throughout the 1950s and 1960s. The kebaya garments are characterised by their snug fit, vibrant colours, prominent floral designs, and frequently intricate embroidery. The incorporation of local aesthetics has resulted in the inclusion of decorative elements that reflect the Chinese heritage of the Peranakans, such as dragons and phoenixes. Additionally, the utilisation of chemical dyes in the batik industry across Southeast Asia has introduced a vibrant colour palette to a costume that historically featured subdued hues from natural dyes. Lim Yu Lin of Ang Eng kebaya boutique offers insights into the visual and tactile cues to consider when looking for an exceptional Nyonya kebaya piece.

1. The fabric has to be sheer. And most of the time, it’s made from Swiss voile that has been starched to give the fabric a slightly “crispy” texture.

The cutting should be fitting. Look for a princess line that fits on the bodice nicely. Additionally, the bottom of the kebaya should be “pointy”. It’s important to note that the length at the front should be longer than the back.

3. The kerawang (lace) should be on both sides with no protruding threads.

4. The front flap should have enough flexibility— at least 1.5 to 2 inches of give—so when it turns, it forms an open flower pattern. By adding the kerongsang (brooch), it will make the pattern more even.

5. The blouse should have a ketut lubang or tebuk lubang (picot hemstitch) on the bodice. This process is usually done at the final stage as there can’t be any alteration after that.

6. The collar should be continuous with no joining stitches.