Tatler Malaysia

Food From the Heart

Here is how an age-old technique, ground tea, and Korean liquor have taken the world by storm, and how each has gained traction on a global level

- By Katelyn Tan

Food brings with it the power to unite people across the globe with completely different background­s over one interest—the shared enjoyment of flavours. It is the most accessible way of appreciati­ng another culture, and is a major source of tourism. National cuisine holds strong symbolic significan­ce and forms the basis of identity; there is no easier way to fall in love with a culture than through its food. That is why, on a wider level, many countries use cuisine as a means of building bonds through gastrodipl­omacy.

FERMENTED FOODS

The uprising of fermentati­on and ferment-centric restaurant­s in the Western world can be attributed to Noma, which introduced accessible guides to home fermentati­on, dispelling the cloud of mystery that once shrouded such techniques. However, fermentati­on in food production and preservati­on has been used for centuries throughout Southeast and East Asia.

Take kimchi, for instance, which has origins that can be traced back 4,000 years. The word “kimchi” is derived from an ancient term meaning “fermented vegetables”, and this condiment is a staple on all Korean tables. As Korea’s cultural economy has taken the world by storm, so have ingredient­s like kimchi. Chefs and food bloggers often make use of the sweet-sour ingredient, while kimchi grilled cheese or kimchi focaccia are popular items in cafés in the west.

Besides kimchi, other Asian ferments that have become household items worldwide include Japanese miso and soy sauce (which are often forgotten as ferments). Both are often used as marinades for meat, while miso serves as a savoury complement in bakes, such as cookies or banana bread. Tempeh, believed to have originated in Indonesia, is a popular vegan protein substitute. Its nutty flavour has made it a staple in salad bars, coinciding with the rise of veganism and clean eating.

MATCHA

From Starbucks’ green tea lattes to matcha-flavoured chocolates and cakes, matcha can be found everywhere, and for good reason— the powdered tea is a great tool for flavouring and colouring foods, providing an attractive green hue.

The history of matcha dates back to eighth-century China. However, the practice of making powdered tea from dried tea leaves gained traction during the 12th century, when tea seeds were brought to Japan by a monk. Drinking the tea aided meditation, practiced through tea ceremonies. Matcha was considered a status symbol during this era due to its limited quantity.

Now, matcha holds its ground as a signifier of class, albeit in a different form—the trendy green powder has swept the Western world, largely due to social media. Used in treats from ice cream to Swiss rolls, even popular chocolate brands such as Pocky and Kit Kat offer match-a-flavoured varieties.

Full of antioxidan­ts, matcha also boasts a myriad of health benefits. As we turn towards wellness as a society, it is not surprising that many have replaced coffee with matcha, which provides a more sustained caffeine-high with less side effects.

SOJU

It is rare to watch a Korean drama that does not feature a soju scene. The colourless Korean distilled beverage is often enjoyed in relatable parts of series where friends drink alcohol with food or during moments when the drama’s main characters develop a romantic connection. Soju, translatin­g to “burned liquor”, has gained traction throughout the West, thanks to the increased popularity of Korean culture and its associatio­n with friendship and enjoyment.

The alcohol’s origin dates to the 13th century. Originatin­g in Persia, the technique for producing soju was introduced to Korea during invasions, leading to the establishm­ent of distilleri­es across the country where the beverage was made from fermented grains. Due to its widespread availabili­ty and affordable price, soju gained such popularity in Korea that it soon became its national drink.

In 2015, fruit-flavoured soju entered the market, and its low alcohol content and fragrant taste appealed to younger generation­s.

Now, the distinctiv­e green bottles are stocked in Asian supermarke­ts worldwide, making soju one of Korea’s largest exports, with recognisab­le brands such as Jinro. Even bartenders globally incorporat­e it into their cocktails.

COCONUT

Coconut milk, coconut oil, coconut flour—you name it, they’re everywhere. The fruit’s origins can be traced back to the coastal areas of Southeast Asia, where it played a role in sustaining travellers as they ventured across the ocean. Rich in saturated fat, coconut flesh was consumed while its refreshing water hydrated voyagers.

Nowadays, coconut is regarded as a health food, prevalent in most markets, with its byproducts transforme­d into things like coconut butter and vinegars. The creamy nature of the flesh enables its use as vegan alternativ­es, substituti­ng dairy products such as milk, butter and creamers. It is also used to make coconut sugar, coconut caramel and coconut syrup as alternativ­es to artificial sweeteners or sugar.

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 ?? ?? From top: Food fermentati­on has been practiced in Southeast and East Asia for centuries; soju is one of Korea’s major exports. Opposite
page: Matcha has become a ubiquitous staple in culinary and beverage options
From top: Food fermentati­on has been practiced in Southeast and East Asia for centuries; soju is one of Korea’s major exports. Opposite page: Matcha has become a ubiquitous staple in culinary and beverage options
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