Keeping Traditional Recipes Alive
Brimming with his usual positive energy, the iconic Chef Wan discusses his latest mission to reintroduce Malaysia’s lost recipes with us all
More often than not, Malaysian food and Chef Wan are always mentioned in the same breath. After all, for over three decades, the vivacious celebrity chef has been the most ardent promoter of our local cuisine, and this passion has never waned, even today. Just last January, he hosted an exclusive dinner event together with chefs Supachai Saisoigeon, Ahmad Rosnie, and Donadoni at Resorts World Awana, presenting 50 dishes of nearly extinct traditional recipes. An exclusive collaboration between Chef Wan Lifestyle and the hotel group, this event marked his triumphant return after being out of the public eye for a while as he battled with lymphoma cancer.
Entitled “A Lost Recipes Affair with Chef Wan and Friends”, the culinary team took inspiration from the 152 Malaysian recipes detailed in the Endangered Heritage Food recipe book. During a chat with Chef Wan, 66, prior to the gala dinner, he shared that while developing a book on Pahang traditional recipes, he discovered that there were 500 recipes that are no longer being cooked today, prompting him to wonder about the traditional foods in other Malaysian states as well.
The well-travelled TV host, restaurateur, cookbook author and Tourism Malaysia’s culinary ambassador has always believed in the importance of preserving traditional recipes that have been passed down through generations. “We got these recipes from orang tua-tua, kawan-kawan, makcikmakcik, so in a way, these recipes are about trust—it’s the trust that people give to us when they pass down their recipes. As chefs, we must try to [relive our heritage] and spread this knowledge because if not, who else will do it?” he questioned rhetorically.
He laments that these age-old recipes are slowly being forgotten in the face of modern interpretations making their way into the local food repertoire, and also because they’re labour- and time-extensive. When he was growing up in Pahang, he recalls the tedious process of harvesting ulam-ulam from his grandmother’s garden and the forests, and everything had to be made from scratch. When asked if he would consider modernising traditional recipes to reduce the time and labour involved, he says, “No, I don’t think so. For me, if you want something that bad and you want to enjoy it, just do it. Like with anything in life, if you work hard, you will see the result. As a chef, we take pride in our work and how we present it because it’s important to preserve our culture and heritage. I always say, hilang budaya, hilang bangsa, hilang segala-galanya.”
If you missed out on the gastronomic affair in January, don’t fret as it will make subsequent stops at Resorts World Kijal and Resorts World Langkawi, opening a chapter in the book of lost culinary gems and promising a feast for the senses. Keep an eye out for further announcements.