TASTE OF HERITAGE
At True Blue Cuisine in Singapore, Alan Teh Leam Seng enjoys a feast for the senses that complements his visit to the nearby Peranakan Museum
ICHANCE upon True Blue Cuisine during a visit to the Straits Chinese needlework and embroidery exhibition at the Peranakan Musuem in Singapore. True Blue Cuisine is just two doors away from the museum.
The interior is decorated like a traditional Peranakan house, complete with a chim chae (airwell) area. This section was a very important feature in a Peranakan home as this was where rainwater was collected.
I have a good 30 mins of nostalgia looking at the large collection of vintage photographs and antiques. I can almost picture the original occupants in the house going about their daily chores or preparing for major festivals like Chinese New Year. I am sure it must have been a hive of activity with the children running around as visiting relatives updated their hosts on the latest gossip.
Finally, it is time to sit down and sample the food. I stick to my time-tested method of asking the petite kebayadressed waitress to recommend the house favourites. To my surprise, she rattles off nearly 20 dishes. It is not common for a restaurant to have such a long list of “must-try” dishes. Finally, after much contemplation, I narrow my order down to seven.
While waiting for the food to arrive, I meet Benjamin Seck, the owner who is a sixth generation Teochew Straits Chinese. He is passionate about food and regularly doubles up as chef.
During our brief chat, I learn that True Blue Cuisine first opened in November 2003 in Katong, the Peranakan enclave in Singapore.
“Right from the start, I wanted True Blue Cuisine to be more than just a restaurant. I had envisioned a place that would bring to life an all-round experience of the rich Peranakan culture. Five years later, we decided to move here so that we could complement the Peranakan Museum by providing an even more complete feast for the senses. We try hard to promote a living heritage where culture comes alive,” he says.
The first dish is Benjamin’s own creation. Jantung Pisang is served cold, with hints of green apple and carambola. I am impressed by his ability to remove the bitter taste commonly associated with banana flower. This light appetiser is the perfect start to my Peranakan culinary experience.
Chap Chye (vegetable stew), Ngoh Hiang, Ayam Buah Keluak, Udang Masak Kuah Nanair (prawn in gravy), Beef Rendang and Haypoh Cha Sambal arrive as soon as the last piece of appetiser disappear. The portions are generous and soon I see other diners eyeing my table. Like them, I am now wondering how I will be able to finish all the food.
My favourites for the evening must surely be Beef Rendang and Ayam Buah Keluak (chicken cooked with fruit of the Pangium edule).
The beef is very tender and the chef is very generous with the spices and crispy kerisik. There are hints of kaffir lime leaves, cinnamon and ginger. The rendang is served cold. I feel this is the correct way to serve this dish. Traditionally, rendang is cooked the night before a festival and allowed to continue cooking slowly in its residual heat throughout the night but it’s served cold the next morning.
This is my first taste of Ayam Buah Keluak and I find it goes very well with hot rice. The rice served here is a mixture of jasmine and basmati. Benjamin says this mixture is not only more fragrant but also has a lower starch content.
Benjamin, who travels all over Southeast Asia in search of new ingredients for his restaurant, says the buah keluak he uses is imported from Indonesia. I am surprised to learn that buah keluak is in fact a poisonous fruit which has to undergo a series of “treatments” before it can be safely consumed. The fruit, also called buah kepayang, is buried in ash for several weeks after harvesting. Then it is soaked in water for seven weeks before the nut is cracked open and pounded into a paste prior to cooking.
I savour every mouthful of the Ayam Buah Keluak after learning about the complex process. The dish has a dark, almost black, hue. The chicken is tender and there is certainly a distinct bitter chocolatey taste as well as aroma. It leaves a lingering nutty taste which complements my longan and red dates tea.
The menu at True Blue Cuisine features dishes generally spelt out in Peranakan patois which is a charming blend of Hokkien and Malay. There are English translations.
I catch a whiff of the traditional Peranakan bunga rampay on my way out. This sweet-smelling potpourri of fragrant flower petals and shredded pandan leaves remind me of my visit to the Peranakan Museum earlier.