Drawn toCape Rachado
ES Tung makes a stop at the lighthouse during Raptor Watch Week
IHAD never gone up Cape Rachado (or Tanjung Tuan), Port Dickson, to view its famous lighthouse despite having passed by its vicinity every drive down to Melaka using the coastal trunk road. This time, I decided to drop by as it happened to be the site for the annual Raptor Watch that takes place on its grounds. The lighthouse is believed to be the oldest lighthouse in Malaysia, said to be built in 1863 after the original was destroyed in a war between the Portuguese and the Dutch in the
16th century. The structure is made of masonry and whitewashed. The second tower, which houses a Measat radar, is made of concrete and was built in 1990.
Parameswara, the founder of Melaka, and its first sultan, is believed to be buried in the area. Visitors are allowed only up to the compound but not into the premises of the lighthouse.
The 800m road leading to the lighthouse is well tarred, and flanked on both sides by the original flora of this coastal rainforest. The presence of giant trees like the mata keli (Gynotroches axilliaris), mengkulang (Heritiera simplicifolia), and meranti tembaga (Shorea leprosula) provide a cool respite
even on hot afternoons. A low-flying raptor spotted that day.
The Cape Rachado Lighthouse is believed to be the oldest in the country.
Living under the shade of these trees are a diverse fauna population, including over 50 species of indigenous birds, as well as primates such as macaques and the rarely spotted silver leaf monkey.
During Raptor Watch Week, which takes places in mid-March every year, bird lovers and ornithologists zoom into Tanjung Tuan to catch sight of thousands of birds of prey as they ride the thermals to cross the Straits of Malacca from Indonesia on their return migratory leg.
When I was there to do a painting of
this structure, I met several bird watchers armed with binoculars and long-range cameras. They were perched along the lighthouse’s perimeter wall keeping a lookout for the raptors. The previous day, one of them told me over 2,000 raptors had been spotted. As we were talking, another chap alerted us to two Chinese Sparrowhawks which were coming in from the seas.
OtHER attRaCtiOnS
There are several other attractions in area. About 100m from the lighthouse, on the left side of the road, a concrete-stepped trail leads to the beach where an abandoned
A bird watcher zooming in on the incoming raptors in the horizon; A silver leaf monkey foraging for food among the trees. Dutch well, a piece of rock dubbed the footprint of Hang Tuah, and a Perigi Keramat or “mystical well” are located.
Unfortunately, I did not manage to get down to the beach because of a sprained ankle sustained halfway through the trail. There is another jungle trail that leads to a rocky outcrop known as Batu Puteh but this one has been closed due to safety concerns. There is another stepped trail just beside the lighthouse that one can explore.
On my way down from the lighthouse, a chance encounter with a park sweeper revealed an interesting side to Tanjung Tuan. According to the man, in the days of old, the jungles surrounding the lighthouse were considered “magical”.
“When I was young, my parents told me and my siblings that the area is inhabited by invisible beings known as ‘orang bunian’. These beings rarely disturb humans but sometimes, if they are offended by mischievous visitors, they would make their presence felt. When they cross paths with humans by chance, they would transform into creatures of the jungle to hide their identities.
“I also remember tales of a huge white crocodile that inhabit the waters off the coast and which had been spotted sunning on the rocks. That crocodile is believed to be a ‘keramat’ (a mystical guardian) of the coastline,” he said.
Visitors to the lighthouse are charged RM1 at the foot of the hill. The best times to visit is during weekdays. The road leading to the lighthouse is clean but the incline can be challenging if you are not fit. There are several rest huts for you to catch your breath.
that is made available. It seems not many resorts here offer this.
Guests can choose to stay in air-conditioned rooms, rooms with only fans or in the dormitory. WiFi, however, is not available in the rooms but only at its Ombak cafe. I love this cafe’s overall look. It has “tribal” interior elements in its furnishings — carvings and structure, wooden chairs and tables, as well as the reddish batik-designed table cloths, the sandy floor and a gazebo (for BBQ).
The cafe serves many types of food, from Western to Asian. It specialises in an array of home-made breads and its best dishes include chicken Parmigiana, chicken in skewers and delicious Western desserts.
While you dine, you can also watch two movies nightly. You can buy some popcorn and watch the movies under the twinkling sky. The resort offers various catering to both big and small groups. You can enrol for diving courses from beginners’ level onwards.
FUN DAY AND NIGHT
When staying at Ombak Dive Resort, you can take a 10-minute walk to Long Beach to snorkel and dive. However, these activities are also available at Coral Bay beach which affronts the resort.
The resort also provides its own trained personnel to guide you. Sea-kayaking is also available at both beaches.
There is also jungle trekking at Long Beach through rocky pathways that provide a breathtaking view from the top of a hill. You can sunbathe or read a book, and have food and drinks at small eateries along the beach.
Shopping is limited to swimming gear and basic necessities, so forget retail therapy. Find souvenirs at the Kuala Besut Jetty for reasonable prices.
From Perhentian Kecil, you can catch a speedboat to Perhentian Besar or any other island that’s close by.
As the sun slowly sets at Coral Bay, yellow lights illuminate the beachfront of Long Beach where nightlife begins. After long hours in the sun what better way to unwind than to sit at the shore and enjoy
some drinks and food while enjoying the cool night breeze.
As it gets darker, the music gets louder and people start flooding in. With limited access to the Internet on this island, more people seem to interact with each other. You can enjoy ice-crushed milkshakes, fruit smoothies, and BBQ dinners as well as light snacks and desserts at most eateries. There are various clubs and bars too where you can mingle and dance the night away.
On Saturday nights, tourists entertained with local performances. Some of us leave the beach area around 8pm as we are told that the pathway leading back to the resort is dark so bring a torchlight or switch your handphone torch.