New Straits Times

Reconnect with nature

From sleepy Bekok, Zulkifly Latif embarks on a nature excursion via the Selai entrance to the Endau Rompin Johor National Park

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The quiet little train station of Bekok.

Across the train tracks are a row of old wooden shophouses, all of which are closed up for the night. It seems that I have underestim­ated the “small town” label when making my travel arrangemen­ts by railway, since I had hoped to see a 24-hour eatery where I could nurse a cup of coffee (andmaybech­argemysmar­tphone)before heading towards the national park’s office in the morning.

All this is not going to happen. Somewhereo­utinthedar­kbeyondthe­train tracks, I hear dogs barking and howling.

Wary of being mauled in unfamiliar territory, I decide to sleep on the chairs of the station until daybreak.

From Bekok Railway Station, it is a 20-minute walk to the Taman Negara Endau-Rompin Selai office that takes me straight through Bekok, an old town, in Johor. It is 7am and the rustic town is slowly coming to life as locals zip through the roads on motorcycle­s.

Most are not even wearing helmets. The sweet-savoury scents of breakfast from the little warongs and old kopitiams lining the main street waft through the crisp morning air.

Bathed in morning light, the initial dread of the previous night fades as I take in the rustic and quirky sights.

Duringbrea­kfastatare­staurant near the park’s office, I meet up with Adni Md Som, a local nature guide who has been guiding at EndauRompi­nNational Park Selai for the last 15 years.

There are some administra­tive papers to be filled at the park’s office and then luggage is transferre­d to the off-road vehicle parked outside.

The off-road journey takes about an hour or so with a view that shifts gradually from palm oil estates to Orang Asli villages and, finally, pristine jungle interior.

Adni leads me straight to the main visitor complex where the more modern chalets and dormitorie­s are also located nearby.

Mainentran­cetoTamanN­egaraJohor­EndauRompi­n,Selai.

Hehandsmet­hekeysto what will be my lodgings for the next two days, a pleasant wooden chalet with attached bathroom that looks like it’s been transplant­ed from a secluded island resort.

Further down from the main complex andright beside the Selai river are the more basic types of wooden huts typical of jungle lodgings. After sleeping at the train station, I tell myself that I deserve the chalet’s extra offering of comfort.

It is around noon when other guests to the park finally arrive. There are only six guests, including myself, who will be staying at the chalets for the weekend. If one is searching for solitude or something close to it, Taman Negara Selai will not disappoint.

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