Instant way to bolster flavour
Misoisthemagic flavouring for food, writes David Tanis
Ito NVENTIVE cooks are always looking is push flavour to the maximum. Here a little my advice: When in doubt, add miso. It has transformative powers. of In addition to offering a host miso nutritional and probiotic benefits, a sweet, imbues everything it touches with choose salty, nutty complexity. Whether you
yellow mild white miso, medium-bodied
reddish-brown miso or the more intense miso, it gives foods instant brightness.
adds Even a very small quantity
dressings, dimension and sparkle to salad soups and stews.
which Most people wouldn’t eat miso,
beans, is made from fermented soya
is too straight from the jar — the flavour concentrated. Diluted or in combination
it imparts with other ingredients, though,
way other a subtle roundness, in the same
anchovy umami-rich condiments, like
into paste or fish sauce, meld unobtrusively
miso into the whole. Some chefs mix a little
sauce for softened butter to make a quick
toast for fish. (Miso butter is also good on a snack, a bit like Marmite or Gentleman’s Relish, or with corn on the cob.)
I quite like to use miso in marinades,
mirin and thinned with a bit of sake or
paired punched up with ginger. It’s delicious
Misowith salmon, black cod or mackerel.
Meat coated broiled eggplant is brilliant. and poultry take well to the miso treatment,
or misotoo: Consider miso pork chops basted roast chicken or quail.
you’d With duck breasts — or legs, if
Leave the prefer — miso does wonders.
an hour, meat in the marinade for at least
the duck or for as long as two days. Grill
care to over coals or in cast iron, taking
hefty keep the meat medium-rare. Even
emerge 454g Muscovy duck breasts
I used tender, juicy and delightfully savoury.
each, moulard breasts, which weigh 227g but any size will work.
in any Though miso duck is wonderful
the star season, it’s pretty spectacular as
salad. element in a summery main course
to the I added orange zest and orange juice marinade, which came through beautifully.
to room It’s best to let the grilled duck cool temperature before carving.
and Tucked into crisp lettuce leaves
mango topped with tiny green beans, sliced
duck will and watercress sprigs, this
reason. astonish your guests. Miso is the
4 large duck breasts (about
907g/ 2 lbs) Salt and pepper
4 tbsp red miso
2 tbsp light soya sauce or tamari
1 tbsp sake or mirin (optional)
1 tbsp grated orange zest
1 tbsp grated ginger
1 garlic clove, minced
Pinch of cayenne
1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
4 tbsp freshly squeezed orange
juice 170g small green beans, topped
and tailed
Lettuce leaves, for serving
1 large mango, peeled and
sliced Watercress sprigs, for garnish
(optional) 3 tbsp chopped scallions
1. Time: 1 ½ hours Yield: 4 to 6 servings Trim duck breasts of extraneous
fat (or ask your butcher to trim
them) and score the skin. Season
very lightly with salt and generously
with coarsely ground pepper.
2.
Makethemarinade:Inamixingbowl, whisk together miso, soya
sauce, sake, orange zest, ginger,
garlic, cayenne and sesame oil. Remove ¼ cup of the marinade and
combine it with 2 tablespoons orange
juice to make a dressing; set aside.
Add remaining 2 tablespoons orange
juice to the marinade in the mixing
bowl. 3. Lay duck in a shallow pan
and pour the marinade over, making
sure
4.
5. meat is well coated. Let sit at
room temperature for at least 1 hour.
If you wish, cover and refrigerate for
up to 1 day; bring to room temperature before proceeding.
Prepareabedofmedium-hotcoalsin a grill, or heat a stovetop grill
or castiron pan to medium hot. Cook
duck breasts skin-side down for 8
to 10 minutes, until fat is rendered and
skin is nicely coloured. (See note).
Turn and cook on the other side for
3 or 4 minutes, until internal temperature registers 125 degrees. Remove
from heat and let rest at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile,bringapotofwell-salted water to a boil. Cook green
beans for 1 to 2 minutes, until firm-tender. Drain green beans and rinse with
cool water; blot dry.
6. Slice duck crosswise about
⅛-inch thick. Line a platter with
lettuce leaves. Place several slices
of duck on each leaf, along with a
couple of mango slices. Arrange
green beans over the top and garnish
with watercress, if using. Drizzle reserved dressing over everything, sprinkle with scallions and serve.
Keep meat at least 13 inches above coals to prevent scorching, and take care to move meat
away from flames if dripping fat ignites. If using stovetop grill or cast-iron pan, regulate heat to keep skin
from browning too quickly.